oldest school
Old Mossy Horns
Judging from your kill pics and your trophy room, whatever you are doing, you are doing it right. Keep doing it.
Amen to that.
Judging from your kill pics and your trophy room, whatever you are doing, you are doing it right. Keep doing it.
Thanks everyone for the responses to my question, they were very helpful! May have to try some mineral sites this year and see what my camera picks up...
Remember..you have to have a deer on the bag to be legal in NC. Sad but true unfortunately.
Of course if you bought one bag or bucket to use with your home brew.........wellllll I'm sure some folks do the same.
I've had good luck with the range mineral for lactating sheep and red trace mineral salts mixed half and half. That seems to get hit readily and has alot of the ingredients in some of the "better researched" mineral combinations out there. Cattle range mineral will work but has a couple of ingredients that deer don't necessarily need.
Depending on your soil in NC..some of the sandier soils so have a lack of some minerals and leach pretty badly. Other "red sand" soils or clays are better at retaining and binding the minerals so adding salt for attraction is all you really need to do with regularity. Deer need sodium once the green up in springtime starts and they will slam a well placed salt/sodium mineral site.
I typically mix about a 20:1 plain ol powdered dolomite with it, that has both calcium and magnesium that are building blocks for the fawn and doe health as well as a major component of antler structure.
FYI.......I noticed on their website Dick's Sporting Goods is selling 12-pound Trophy Rocks 2 for $20 through January 27th.
how long will they last in your applications?
I will put one rock out at each site sometime in February or March, and it will usually last all spring and summer...as long as it isn't sitting on wet ground. If it sits on a wet spot it will melt pretty quickly. Kept dry, I'll use one rock per site per year. By early fall the rocks are usually dwindling away to nothing, which is ok because the deer pretty much stop using them about that time. Its best to keep a rock off the ground if at all possible. If there isn't a log or a stump right where I want to put it (and there usually isn't), I'll set it on a slab of bark or wood or something....anything to keep it off the ground. I'll usually put a camera at each site sometime after turkey season...and that's when the fun begins!
Minerals are a touchy subject for a lot of folks. I have been using some form of mineral on every property I hunt since probably 2005. What I have noticed over the years is this:
First you must realize that something labeled as a mineral doesn't mean much at face value. If you remember high school chemistry, Salt is Sodium and Chlorine (NaCl) which are both minerals. So even a 100% salt block can be labeled a mineral...so don't rely on what the label says. Most hunters are more concerned with attracting deer than building antler mass, so if that is the goal, it really doesn't matter what you use. I have found that deer seem to like granular salt better than block form. The blocks last longer but I have always gotten more pictures over granular mineral sites.
As far as something that actually benefits a deer enough to affect antler growth, I would say 90% of the marketed "deer minerals" will do little to nothing to accomplish that. I have literally used almost everything that is out there across 4 states. What works best I have found really depends on the geography and soil content of the particular farm the mineral site is used on. For example, when I hunted primarily in NC, a lot of the ground was very acidic, and soil tests would show that the soil was deficient in many macro and trace minerals. In that case, using a mineral that provides what the deer are not getting through natural browse will absolutely make a difference. On the other hand, where I live currently, the soil is very very rich and full of minerals, so the antlers already reach a lot of their potential naturally, meaning mineral supplementation has much less if any effect here.
Texas is a perfect example of this. South Texas does not have great soil. It's rocky and dry. 40 years ago the area was not known for big whitetails...so what happened? Deer managers figured out that mineral deficiency was stunting antlers. Texas biologists started planting high protein food plots and feeding deer cattle minerals. Now doing that is the norm there, and look at the size of some of those Texas bucks. The genetics didn't change. But prolonged access to minerals not available in the natural forage throughout a deer's life (and it's parents lives) make a big difference.
That being said, the Southeast is in my opinion one of the places where minerals can be the most effective. It's not something that will be noticeable right away; in fact you really wont see a huge difference until the 2nd and 3rd generations of deer that have access to minerals. The best results will come from doing a soil test. Sounds ridiculous, but think about it. If your particular soil is deficient in phosphorus for example, then you will see the most benefit from using a mineral that has a high amount of phosphorus. Same with any other macro or trace mineral. As much as the marketing depts. of mineral companies try to say so, There really is not a mineral that will be great everywhere in the country, or even in the same county. It's all about the specific needs of a property.
For this reason I now mix my own mineral. where I live now, the soils is pretty darn good, so I use a higher concentration of granular red salt because I am honestly just trying to get pictures. My recommendation would be to read the label of what you buy. Don't buy a 60-90% salt mixture and expect it to do much for antler growth.
I have found that deer seem to like granular salt better than block form. The blocks last longer but I have always gotten more pictures over granular mineral sites.............Texas biologists started planting high protein food plots and feeding deer cattle minerals.................For this reason I now mix my own mineral.
I apologize for taking some of your statements out of context, but each of them relates to my follow-up question for you, if that's ok. Years and years ago before there were commercially-available "deer blocks", etc., I was making my own mineral sites using granular salt and a granular dairy mineral, both of which I bought at Southern States. The dairy mineral had fair amounts of Calcium, Phosphorus, and Magnesium, though I don't remember the exact analysis. I would mix them together about 50/50 and work them into the soil with a shovel. The deer used them well, but whether they provided a benefit at all is anybody's guess. I did it assuming it might help with antler growth.
Over the years I transitioned over to commercially made blocks (Trophy Rock predominately), mostly for convenience. Based on your comments though, as well as the comments from some of the others who have responded, I'm thinking I may be better off returning to my old granular system. If you're familiar with the dairy mineral I'm referring to that Southern States sells, do you think that's a similar product to the cattle mineral you mentioned above? If not, can you recommend a particular supplement? Or might I be better off switching to a "ready-mixed" granular product.....like what HR Carver produces, for example? Thanks.
I used to use Pro-Phos 8 by land 'o lakes. I believe in this so much, IMO & experience, I can't explain. Rack size, adding mass, kickers, droptines, etc - it's sick. Deer with faces in it all summer. The increases I see are incredible vs deer that don't have minerals they need (deficiencies on phosphorous, calcium, etc). Or- what the average 2-4 year olds looked like on XYZ farm BEFORE doing this VS 2-3 years later - good gosh, HUGE difference, IMO. Improving health, immune systems, etc - has same thing & reasons cattle guys give to cows year round. & Vitamin & mineral defiencies happen in people, cattle, deer, etc, no question about it. Purina quit making pro-phos 8 (owns land o lakes) and have a CLOSE product now.... Either Fescue Pro Mineral 8 or Regular Pro Mineral 8 (Fescue has a little more for mineral on immune boosting, etc) but essentially both are darn close. 8% phosphorous (most areas being phosphorous deficient), and all the minerals I could dream up + Molasses to attract.
View attachment 59330
http://www.ncwildlife.org/Portals/0/About/documents/082814-process-food-products-resolution.pdf
According to the latest I could find..unless it's specifically marketed for deer, it's considered a "processed food product" anywhere there's a bear season(which is the whole dern state now)
Be careful about putting minerals out before turkey season, we all know turkeys don't eat salt but I believe that you could get ticketed for hunting near a mineral site. Somebody correct me if I am wrong.
^ Thanks! I have a Trophy rock out in several places and I'm going to try the Lucky Buck mineral, I'll put it on the ground and see what happens.
Not trying to get off topic but that deer looks older in the first pic vs the second ..trail cam pics can be misleading for sure !! How old you think he is now?We feed Trophy Rock minerals and a protein supplement from Jan-July. This is growth of a buck in one year. Soybeans are also a great help. But I feel supplements help