Till, Disc, No-till.........

JayDB

Eight Pointer
I am going to attempt to plant a field that hasn't been worked in probably 12 years (the field was planted up to 12 years ago). The field is currently in Lespedeza with mixed in fescue and a few small gum trees here and there.

Do you believe mowing the field then disking the ground will work the ground enough to be suitable for planting something like corn, soybeans, etc.?

I don't have a rotary tiller, but am considering purchasing one. For those of you who have a rotary tiller, do you like/advise using one, how do you like the results of it compared to say a disc?
 

sky hawk

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
mow, spray, disc, disc again, then plant.

I don't like rotary tillers for food plots. We've got too many rocks, stumps and roots for that. I've got one, and I used it on my garden where I can clean all of the junk out, but I wouldn't dare use it on my food plots.

If you've got a field that was commercially farmed, and there are no large rocks, roots, or stumps in it, then you might get by with it, but I don't think it does anything for you over just discing 2-3 times. I don't want my plots to have soft soil like my garden either. I want a firmer seedbed.
 

Eric Revo

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
I use a tiller and once you're ground is broken up and all the larger rocks are picked out they work well since most grains don't need a deep root system. For clover or something with a deeper root system you should use something to bust it up down to at least 12 inches to start.....
 

bryguy

Old Mossy Horns
I would mow it, then if you have access, use a plow and turn the ground then disc after plowing. it will turn the soil over and help with the small trees and lespedeza.
 

SamCo89

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
Depends on what you want- your best long term option is spray,spread & mow. Cereal rye has a very substantial root system for getting deep, so does a forage radish or turnip.

If I disced I would do it just light enough to barely cut the top soil. Worst thing you can do for soil health is turn it over-when you do, you are killing the organic matter that promotes healthy soil.


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stilker

Old Mossy Horns
If it was me I would turn it late winter,let it get some moisture down in it,then disc it right before I planted.
 

25contender

Twelve Pointer
If I could afford it I would have a no till grain drill. Then all you would have to do is bushog spray and then drill the seed. Eliminates a lot of issues with unwanted plants in your plots.
For now I spray disc and broadcast plant everything.
 
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Eggman

Twelve Pointer
Check with your county extension agent. They may have a no till drill you can rent for cheap.
 

bryguy

Old Mossy Horns
Depends on what you want- your best long term option is spray,spread & mow. Cereal rye has a very substantial root system for getting deep, so does a forage radish or turnip.

If I disced I would do it just light enough to barely cut the top soil. Worst thing you can do for soil health is turn it over-when you do, you are killing the organic matter that promotes healthy soil.


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its been fallow for 12 years........it needs to be broken good and cut to get the soil ready to plant corn and beans like the OP was saying.
 

bryguy

Old Mossy Horns
If you have an ATV get you a GroundHog Max. Mow it then disc it up with the Max. I really like mine.

sorry but I have yet to see ANY atv disc work on anything other then very sandy soft soil. I have one I used behind my side by side when I had it and it took forever to get a plot in decent enough shape to plant, now I can rent a tractor for a day and mow, disc and have my plots ready cheaper then I could using my own stuff.
 

MtnMan

Ten Pointer
As soon as deer season is over mow it and like Stilker said turn it and disc and plant in the spring as soon as the soil gets some warmth in it.
 

darkthirty

Old Mossy Horns
Your number one priority right now shouldn’t have anything to do with tilling of any kind. The first thing I’d do is wage war on the fescue. Bushhog, spray it, then spray it some more. Focus on getting rid of any competition. And it can be a lot easier said than done. With the right herbicide, it can be done fairly quickly and effectively but it can also be expensive.

Once you think you’ve got the fescue and other stuff killed off, I’d go in with a bottom plow and turn it. I love my 5’ tiller. One pass after turning it and it looks like it’s been gone over with a disc a dozen times. Then I’d let it sit 3-4 weeks and go back in and spray it again with the herbicide. Wait a couple weeks and go back over with the tiller and plant whatever you choose.

In a situation like you’re describing, I’d be tempted to use this summer as prep summer to make sure you have got the fescue and any other competition gone then go in late summer/early fall and plant cover crop such as forage oats then move on with your original plan next spring.
 

sky hawk

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
I haven't found fescue hard to kill. One pass with glyphosate and it knocks it out. It's the other weeds that germinate after you plant that is usually the struggle.
 

SamCo89

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
its been fallow for 12 years........it needs to be broken good and cut to get the soil ready to plant corn and beans like the OP was saying.

Not necessarily- which is why I said it depends on his goals. Not planting for max harvest potential. Way too many ppl out there, myself included, that have done this with “fallow” ground & gotten results.


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para4514

Eight Pointer
Contributor
I haven't found fescue hard to kill. One pass with glyphosate and it knocks it out. It's the other weeds that germinate after you plant that is usually the struggle.

While fescue can be tough to kill dead, proper rates of glyphosate at the right time of year (fall or spring) will generally knock it out. From a weed standpoint, I would be much more concerned with the lespedeza mentioned by the OP. If it is sericea lespedeza (likely) it can lay dormant in the seed bank for years and will require a few years of treatment to get under control.

Another condition you sometimes run into with old fields like this are plow pans or hard pans. This is a compressed layer of soil typically 12 to 18 inches below the surface. It can limit water movement and root growth. May be worth getting some input from "Soil man" on how to check for a hard pan. If you have a way to get the field sub-soiled you can break a hard pan improve water infiltration, while maintaining much of the beneficial soil biology.

As mentioned above taking a growing season or two to get weeds under control would be wise. during this time use annuals that are not as finicky to build the soil, suppress weed growth and provide a food source. Also use this time to get soil samples and amend soils as recommended.
 

41magnum

Twelve Pointer
no till requires a grain drill........do you have one?

they are nice but probably should wait until crop is established and you replant future crops.
 

Taproot

Guest
Get free expert help up front. A good place to start is NRCS and also NC Wildlife Resources Commission. Both offer free technical assistance. A state wildlife biologist will focus on your habitat and wildlife mgt. An agronomist will help address soils and farming best practices. Get their recommendations your soil and your specific site. You will be glad you did. Plus, they can tell you about incentive programs like CSP and WHIP that reimburse up to $50/acre for habitat enhancements.
 

Taproot

Guest
Spray with herbicide and wait two weeks. Then break the soil with a cutting harrow since it's been fallow so long. Follow up with a smoothing harrow and top sow. Finish with cultipacker.
 
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