Pattern not as tight @ 30yds

wildcat3

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
I've been shooting a good bit lately, trying to get my new bow tuned in for this season. At 20 yards I could not be happier with my groups but when I step back to 30yds the pattern is no where near acceptable to hunt with for me. I recently adjusted the 30 yard sight as it was a new bow and the bow shop only set up the 20 yard pin. I am fairly confident that I have the pin set in the correct location and secured with the Allen screw on the sight mount. I am not one to throw blame on faulty equipment often as its usually the operator but I will tell you the fletching on the majority of my arrows has seen better days. Could this be part of the issue? Could the extra 10 yards of flight be enough for the bad fletching to play enough of a part causing the groups to scatter? Is there something else I need to pay attention to ? All of my yardage is checked with a range finder so I know I'm good there.
 

wl704

Ten Pointer
Distance will show you all sorts of things. Could be form, could be arrow setup or bow setup.

Take the arrows and bow setups out of the equation by looking at paper and french tuning.

After any equipment concerns are (mostly) addressed then you start on (IMHO) the hardest part-finding and fixing form problems (Anchor point consistency, pulling through the shot and dropping the arm are pretty common form problems). Getting somebody to help identify and help solve form problems helps, immensely.
 

Buxndiverdux

Old Mossy Horns
Post a picture of your arrow fletchings. Worn or wrinkled fletchings would be arrow shelf contact, which would have a huge impact on 30 yard groups.
 

Ashy Larry

Ten Pointer
It could even be too much facial pressure on the string or anchoring too deep. And of course, trigger punching.
 

beard&bow

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
I'd imagine that whatever is happening at 30 is happening at 20. Just not enough distance to tell. Are you anticipating the release? Something I learned not to do long ago is actually grip the grip. Not saying you are, just something else to look for. When I shoot, my left hand is wide open. When I used to grip it, my grouping would be less than stellar.

None of this may be the problem, just trying to cover other symptoms not mentioned yet.
 

wildcat3

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
I'd imagine that whatever is happening at 30 is happening at 20. Just not enough distance to tell. Are you anticipating the release? Something I learned not to do long ago is actually grip the grip. Not saying you are, just something else to look for. When I shoot, my left hand is wide open. When I used to grip it, my grouping would be less than stellar.

None of this may be the problem, just trying to cover other symptoms not
mentioned yet

I have been gripping the grip. Read several articles on this today. I am going to shoot tonight with a open hand and see if anything tightens up. I'm also reading that an open grip will actually force a slide bend in the elbow thus helping to insure the forearm isn't swiped by the string, anyone heard of this?
 

beard&bow

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
I'm also reading that an open grip will actually force a slide bend in the elbow thus helping to insure the forearm isn't swiped by the string, anyone heard of this?

I do believe that it's a happy coincidence. I've been slapped once since using an open grip. That was probably because I was tired of shooting and had bad form.
 

sky hawk

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
I think the best is a relaxed grip. If you extend your fingers (open), then you are using muscles to keep it open and are putting pressure on the grip. The best approach is to allow your hand to relax around the grip.
 

Weekender

Twelve Pointer
I think the best is a relaxed grip. If you extend your fingers (open), then you are using muscles to keep it open and are putting pressure on the grip. The best approach is to allow your hand to relax around the grip.

Agreed.

Also, advice to the OP: When my shots aren't grouped tight at 30 yards, it's me. Every time. Something in my form lapses. It's never my bow.
 

Newsome Road

Ten Pointer
As soon as you get it figured out, start shooting further distances. I have rarely shot at a deer over 30 yards, but I like to practice in the 60-80 range. You will definitely start fine tuning your mechanics when you get over 50 yards. Don't be afraid to stretch it out in a practice session
 

pattersonj11

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
Yes to the above. Ive seen too many people with an "open grip". It does nothing when you force it to happen. Get your geip the way you want it, draw, and relax your hand. That is it in a nutshell.
 

Greg

Old Mossy Horns
I put the tip of my middle finger on the front of the grip and let everything else relax. To avoid string slap, rotate your elbow out.
 

bradman

Spike
"Dropping the bow" and "looking" was my problem years ago. Improper follow through and trying to see where my arrow was hitting was destroying my accuracy. Just a thought and my .02. Good luck to you.
 
Last edited:

30/06

Twelve Pointer
The long range practice tip is a good one, once you get dialed in I practice at 40-60+, never really shoot at 20 except one or two shots every couple months to make sure the pin is still good. Once you start shooting at 60, 20 is a chip shot.
 

wildcat3

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
Alright, so I've been shooting a good bit and still not happy with my pattern at 30 yards. It's not what I would consider tight at all. In fact I would not take a shot at a deer with it at 30 yards. 20 yards I'm nearly splitting arrows. I shot and shot and more often times than not it's off to the left with a little variance in elevation but the majority of my shots are left. Before I start moving sights and rests I want to make sure it's not a flinch or a form thing. Anyone have any ideas would be causing me to constantly shoot left if it was indeed not in my set up! As I said before I am not one to quickly blame my equipment. My arrow fletchimgs have seen better days but I still feel like they should be grouping better than what they are.

Any Cabarrus or Rowan county guys fimilar with S&S Archery in China Grove? I got the bow from them. I'm wondering if I went up there and told them I was having trouble getting it dialed in if they'd be willing to help me? I know they have a range and great customer service but not sure if they would be willing to basically help me tune it in
 

pattersonj11

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
How are you releasing the arrow? With a mechanical release you should be getting your sights aligned and hovering on the target you intend to hit. You should be set up to squeeze your back to make the release go off. It should surprise you. You should not be pulling the teigger so to speak.
 

pattersonj11

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
If the bow is out of tune, you could see it shoot well at 20 and then be erratic at 30. The other side is, if you are consistant, then the impact should be fairly consistant, even if the tune is off.
 

sky hawk

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
I would go up to S&S Graham. They will help you. They are good folks.

But to your question - another thing that can cause a left shot is a draw length that is too short - basically your right arm not being aligned with the center of your grip. A slight chicken wing so to speak. I would think that would have been checked before buying the bow. One thing that helps with pulling left is to focus on back tension. Pretend you are squeezing your shoulder blades together at full draw. You should be holding full draw with your back muscles, not with your arm muscles. This will help to align your arms and will prevent your bow arm from pulling left at the moment of release.
 

wildcat3

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
I think I'm going to take it to S&S on Monday and get them to help me before I end up with something really out of tune or continue doing something incorrectly to the point it becomes habit and harder to break.
 
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