Any 6.5 CM handloaders on here?

My neighbor just got into reloading and I was helping him set up his bench and press tonight. He has a Ruger RPR in 6.5 and a box of 147 ELD Match bullets. I gave him a pound of H4350 and some F210 primers to get him started and I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations as to a decent starting load? I downloaded the Hornady data from their website but I figured someone on here may have loaded a few. I've only shot the 140's.

I'd ask at http://www.65creedmoor.com/
and
http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve
and
www.handloadersbench.com
and
www.reloadersnest.com ..if it was me.

Will do. Just thought I would throw it out here to begin with.

I would imagine you could use the 140 data and just start 10% lower and work up slowly till you either find a node or see pressure signs.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I guess he'll have to learn like we did. LOL!

Honestly I've found the Hornady match & precision hunter ammo to be consistent and accurate enough to not bother reloading yet. Granted I probably will start once I get 300 pieces or so of spent brass, them Redding competition dies are pricey!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TravisLH said:

Honestly I've found the Hornady match & precision hunter ammo to be consistent and accurate enough to not bother reloading yet. Granted I probably will start once I get 300 pieces or so of spent brass, them Redding competition dies are pricey!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Yes they are! I have found that the match ammo is very good but at $30 plus a box it can get a little pricey. I shoot roughly 100 rounds a month through my bolt action rifles. I figure I'm saving about 50% on ammo. I could save more but I like high end bullets and tight groups. We are sighting in our rifles at 200 yards and if they don't shoot within a 0.5 moa we start to gripe. That's about a 1/4 moa at 100. I'm still amazed that I can shoot tighter groups (consistently) at longer ranges than I can at shorter ranges. I have found that the secret is the standard deviation of your velocity data. Keep it at 5 or below and you are set. I don't even bother putting up a target anymore when I'm working up a load. I just shoot through the chrono and record the SD for the batch.

Nothing at all wrong with saving $ but after you spring for a good set of dies it takes a bit before your saving money. I really like a seating die with a caliper gauge built in to dial in the seating depth for shooting off the lands. Been really impressed with the ELD-x line up and I'm generally not a huge Hornady fan, but their match of terminal ballistics and accuracy have been impressive. Might have to try their 338 for the LM after I get through my stock of 250gn SMKs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Downeast said:

We are sighting in our rifles at 200 yards and if they don't shoot within a 0.5 moa we start to gripe. That's about a 1/4 moa at 100.l:

Click to expand...

Are you saying that .5 MOA at 200 equals "about .25 MOA at 100" mathematically? Or are you saying the gun shoots worse at 200 then it does at 100?

woodmoose said:

Are you saying that .5 MOA at 200 equals "about .25 MOA at 100" mathematically? Or are you saying the gun shoots worse at 200 then it does at 100?

Click to expand...

For some strange reason they usually shoot about 0.5 MOA or less at 100, and 0.5 inch at 200, which would mean 0.25 MOA at 100??? I was hitting a 4 inch steel dong at 600 yards the other day, which is below 1 MOA. I'm still in shock! But I have become a firm believer in Krieger barrels. My neighbor with the RPR got so upset that he packed up and went home. LOL! Bye... He's the one that now wants to start handloading.

Downeast said:

a firm believer in Krieger barrels. .

Click to expand...

When I built rifles in the old days, that's about all I used.

TravisLH said:

them Redding competition dies are pricey!!

Click to expand...

That's why many just use a non-comp neck sizer OR a full length die 1/16" from shell holder for the same results...learned this from bench resters 30 yrs ago...their records still stand.

Well I have to say that I don't save any money reloading the loads I shoot due to components I like to use. A piece of lapua brass runs about .89 cents, then the lapua scenar or Berger vld run about .89 cents a piece.....so even without powder or primer my loads run about $2 a round.....but I can't find the combo I like asa factory load anywhere so I roll my own.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

41magnum said:

That's why many just use a non-comp neck sizer OR a full length die 1/16" from shell holder for the same results...learned this from bench resters 30 yrs ago...their records still stand.

Click to expand...

I bought a cheap lee neck sizer and a redding completion bullet seater that I use to roll my longer range stuff. For hunting ammo I use either a set of hornady dies set up for the 150 load or a set of rcbs set up for the 165 load. I'll be ordering another set of 308 dies for the 150 noslers when they get here too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

bryguy said:

I bought a cheap lee neck sizer and a redding completion bullet seater that I use to roll my longer range stuff. For hunting ammo I use either a set of hornady dies set up for the 150 load or a set of rcbs set up for the 165 load. I'll be ordering another set of 308 dies for the 150 noslers when they get here too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

I've used other dies but those Redding Comp for seating just take all the guess work out of getting consistent depths, definitely worth it for LR loads. If I remember correctly I save roughly $1.25/round on 338lm and while that sounds like a lot, it's only a savings of 17% (according to memory). For the creedmoor it would only be about $.12/round and as accurate as the factory stuff is, I just don't find it worth it at the moment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TravisLH said:

I've used other dies but those Redding Comp for seating just take all the guess work out of getting consistent depths, definitely worth it for LR loads. If I remember correctly I save roughly $1.25/round on 338lm and while that sounds like a lot, it's only a savings of 17% (according to memory). For the creedmoor it would only be about $.12/round and as accurate as the factory stuff is, I just don't find it worth it at the moment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

I agree with the creed loads. It is just hard to find the combination I like for 308 in a factory load. Plus let's face it....l like reloading personally


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a savage in 6.5 creed and found a great load with the 123 a-max and H4350.If I decide to use it this year.
I have been reloading my own bullets since the early 1950.s.I can probably count the number of boxes of factory
loads That I have bought on one hand not counting 22 and 17 cal .The last factory loads I bought was when the rem 260 came out to get some brass for reloading.
I bought a 22/250 and a 270 sps the year they came out.The first time at the range with the 270,a young fellow was shooting a 270 don't remember the brand but he was shooting the federal fusion bullets.
Got to helping him zero his rifle and he gave me 3 of the fusions to try in mine.
Now this is saying something for a new factory rifle and a factory bullet.3 in one hole


The reason I reload is that I can get groups like the ones below,by playing with different loads.
These were shot with a savage 308 out of the box,using standered RCBS dies.