What do you think and why.

Thread starter #1
I have a little rifle I'm beat in-between scope choices.
My DOPE tells me at 250yds it only drops out 7"

For deer or any game 250 is Max killing power with the .223

But.. I like to spin and shoot out to 500yds. Paper punching steel ringing.

Only a time or two a year.

And hunting a time or two a year.

When I do tote a rifle it's to a fixed stand. Box or ground.

At 350yds I can ring steel holding over 21" and hit pretty consistent.

Past that I need to dial.

My millet tactical scope is big and heavy
My little Leupold 3x9-40 is great size and light. No worry's set and forget with a 100yd zero.

What would you keep on the gun?

The millet is only good on 10power for the Mil dots for shooting deer without spinning.
But can spin to play.

The Leupold is only 9 power no spinning for long range playing but is so nice and clear. I like the clear retical.

Does your rifle ride a hunting scope or playing scope? Not that one isn't the other but you get the jist.

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wcjones

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
#2
I have a vortex diamondback tactical on my 6.5 creed. It goes up to 12x. I can spin the turrets when I feel like playing or i can hunt with it out to 200 and not have to even think about drop.
 

bryguy

Twelve Pointer
#3
simple fix for that problem........sell both and buy a SWFA super sniper fixed power in either 6x or 10x with the mil quad reticle and rock on........I have 3 of the 6x fixed powers and 3 of the 10x fixed powers and they do everything you are wanting for less then $300.................
 
#4
i have a vortex diamondback 3-12x42 for a similar situation on my bolt .223. I only "play" out to 300 yards though so my situation was a little simpler. Based on my situation, i'd put the leupold on and let it rock. Find another gun for the Millet :)
 

nchawkeye

Old Mossy Horns
#5
Sounds like you need another rifle... :)

Deer hunting, I like to sight in 2 1/2 to 3 inches high at 100, then check at other yardages, basically dial in to be dead on at 250...This usually puts me about 5-6 inches low at 300...I don't want to hesitate when the time comes...When hunting over fields my Leupolds are set at 9x...I know yardages because I have already ranged...If a buck comes out, chasing does, I concentrate on getting him stopped, then making the shot...

I'd consider buying a target scope for that .223 and buying a bolt action .243 and putting your favorite 3x9 on that for deer hunting...
 
Thread starter #6
simple fix for that problem........sell both and buy a SWFA super sniper fixed power in either 6x or 10x with the mil quad reticle and rock on........I have 3 of the 6x fixed powers and 3 of the 10x fixed powers and they do everything you are wanting for less then $300.................
When your shooting with mil turrets do you think 1cm at 100 .1 mil or think in inches 3.6" per 1mil?
Or 10cm per mil at 100m?

This millet has mil retical thats only good on 10x
But the turrents are MOA.
I am going to have to make a new DOPE chart that includes mil hold and MOA for spinning.
I need some time behind it to make sure it tracks correctly on different powers spinning.
I wish I had a way to hold the gun still and check it on paper.



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bryguy

Twelve Pointer
#7
simple fix for that problem........sell both and buy a SWFA super sniper fixed power in either 6x or 10x with the mil quad reticle and rock on........I have 3 of the 6x fixed powers and 3 of the 10x fixed powers and they do everything you are wanting for less then $300.................
When your shooting with mil turrets do you think 1cm at 100 .1 mil or think in inches 3.6" per 1mil?
Or 10cm per mil at 100m?

This millet has mil retical thats only good on 10x
But the turrents are MOA.
I am going to have to make a new DOPE chart that includes mil hold and MOA for spinning.
I need some time behind it to make sure it tracks correctly on different powers spinning.
I wish I had a way to hold the gun still and check it on paper.

My seal buddie said mil was about the end of his sniping career when they switched everything over to MRAD.


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I use straight mils and do not even mess with MOA. I buy my scopes with mil reticles and mil adjustments. I set my ballistic apps to mils and just dial and shoot. MOA is also an angular measurement like mils are, but the numbers just look different to me. Mils just are so simple for me.

I will be surprised if the millet tracks correctly. Like I said, for $300 bucks the swfa super snipers are as sure a bet as there is in regards to spinning turrets. I have 10 different swfa super snipers and for the money they are the best there is price wise. You have to spend almost double or triple what they run to get comparable performance


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TravisLH

Twelve Pointer
#9
Usually I put a scope on that will fit any potential need for that rifle.....for example I have several $2000 scopes perfect for long range but they’re not on my Marlin 336, it wears a vari-x 2-7. For what your describing I’d have to say neither is good, the Leupold is a great hunting scope and it’s exactly that, clever, reliable, but no frills and not good for turret spinning. The mullet on the other hand is closer to your needs but not one I’d recommend. They have a bad reputation for being unreliable for returning to zero and have a bad CS rap, also the glass quality is so so at best and sub par for hunting in low light.
My suggestion would be to get a entry level Vortex viper or diamondback in the 4-16 per range with an illuminated reticle., or a Sig whiskey 3. The optical quality will be similar than your Leupold, but be better suited to transition to longer ranges spinning the turrets. Also I can’t say enough how great having an illuminated ret is, no more passing on deer that last 5 minutes cause you can’t make out the reticle.


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bryguy

Twelve Pointer
#10
Usually I put a scope on that will fit any potential need for that rifle.....for example I have several $2000 scopes perfect for long range but they’re not on my Marlin 336, it wears a vari-x 2-7. For what your describing I’d have to say neither is good, the Leupold is a great hunting scope and it’s exactly that, clever, reliable, but no frills and not good for turret spinning. The mullet on the other hand is closer to your needs but not one I’d recommend. They have a bad reputation for being unreliable for returning to zero and have a bad CS rap, also the glass quality is so so at best and sub par for hunting in low light.
My suggestion would be to get a entry level Vortex viper or diamondback in the 4-16 per range with an illuminated reticle., or a Sig whiskey 3. The optical quality will be similar than your Leupold, but be better suited to transition to longer ranges spinning the turrets. Also I can’t say enough how great having an illuminated ret is, no more passing on deer that last 5 minutes cause you can’t make out the reticle.


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More good advice here. Except for the vortex and Sig scopes. I have had a few vortex scopes and their adjustments were never accurate. Granted vortex was great to deal with and was happy to send out new scopes, but even the new scopes had tracking errors that were not acceptable. It seems that the lower end Sig scopes are almost as bad as the vortex scopes in regard to tracking. I have not personally ran a sig yet, so I can only go by what I see others post. I can not say this enough, you need to go over to 24 hourcampfire and send a guy there named formidulous (sp?) a pm and ask him his advice. He sees literally thousands of rounds fired a week by military, law enforcement and private security contractors and he knows what works and what doesn’t. He can steer you in the right direction.


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TravisLH

Twelve Pointer
#11
Usually I put a scope on that will fit any potential need for that rifle.....for example I have several $2000 scopes perfect for long range but they’re not on my Marlin 336, it wears a vari-x 2-7. For what your describing I’d have to say neither is good, the Leupold is a great hunting scope and it’s exactly that, clever, reliable, but no frills and not good for turret spinning. The mullet on the other hand is closer to your needs but not one I’d recommend. They have a bad reputation for being unreliable for returning to zero and have a bad CS rap, also the glass quality is so so at best and sub par for hunting in low light.
My suggestion would be to get a entry level Vortex viper or diamondback in the 4-16 per range with an illuminated reticle., or a Sig whiskey 3. The optical quality will be similar than your Leupold, but be better suited to transition to longer ranges spinning the turrets. Also I can’t say enough how great having an illuminated ret is, no more passing on deer that last 5 minutes cause you can’t make out the reticle.


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More good advice here. Except for the vortex and Sig scopes. I have had a few vortex scopes and their adjustments were never accurate. Granted vortex was great to deal with and was happy to send out new scopes, but even the new scopes had tracking errors that were not acceptable. It seems that the lower end Sig scopes are almost as bad as the vortex scopes in regard to tracking. I have not personally ran a sig yet, so I can only go by what I see others post. I can not say this enough, you need to go over to 24 hourcampfire and send a guy there named formidulous (sp?) a pm and ask him his advice. He sees literally thousands of rounds fired a week by military, law enforcement and private security contractors and he knows what works and what doesn’t. He can steer you in the right direction.


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I know your feelings and reasons but I’ve had the opposite, have 3 vipers on 3 rifles with more than 3500 rounds fired and I’ve yet to have a rifle fail to return to zero or track correctly


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bryguy

Twelve Pointer
#12
Usually I put a scope on that will fit any potential need for that rifle.....for example I have several $2000 scopes perfect for long range but they’re not on my Marlin 336, it wears a vari-x 2-7. For what your describing I’d have to say neither is good, the Leupold is a great hunting scope and it’s exactly that, clever, reliable, but no frills and not good for turret spinning. The mullet on the other hand is closer to your needs but not one I’d recommend. They have a bad reputation for being unreliable for returning to zero and have a bad CS rap, also the glass quality is so so at best and sub par for hunting in low light.
My suggestion would be to get a entry level Vortex viper or diamondback in the 4-16 per range with an illuminated reticle., or a Sig whiskey 3. The optical quality will be similar than your Leupold, but be better suited to transition to longer ranges spinning the turrets. Also I can’t say enough how great having an illuminated ret is, no more passing on deer that last 5 minutes cause you can’t make out the reticle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
More good advice here. Except for the vortex and Sig scopes. I have had a few vortex scopes and their adjustments were never accurate. Granted vortex was great to deal with and was happy to send out new scopes, but even the new scopes had tracking errors that were not acceptable. It seems that the lower end Sig scopes are almost as bad as the vortex scopes in regard to tracking. I have not personally ran a sig yet, so I can only go by what I see others post. I can not say this enough, you need to go over to 24 hourcampfire and send a guy there named formidulous (sp?) a pm and ask him his advice. He sees literally thousands of rounds fired a week by military, law enforcement and private security contractors and he knows what works and what doesn’t. He can steer you in the right direction.


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I know your feelings and reasons but I’ve had the opposite, have 3 vipers on 3 rifles with more than 3500 rounds fired and I’ve yet to have a rifle fail to return to zero or track correctly


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The ones I had were vipers as well and they just failed in tracking tests and return to zero. I am sold on the SWFAs as everyone I have is dead on adjustment wise and returns to zero. For what they cost, I can not find anything that comes close. I did drop some coin on a nightforce, but honestly I can’t tell that there is $1500 worth of difference between it and the SWFA hd scope I bought for $450. Granted the nightforce does have a few more features and is an amazing piece of glass, but I am not sure it is worth the extra cash it costs.


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Thread starter #13
Well I put the Leupold simple pimple back on it. Realistically playing 400yds is long enough to ring. I know the Leupold holds zero and the glass/retical picture is nice.
Untill I get a swfa

Y'all and myself talked me out of the heavy over sized maybe doesn't track correctly Millet.

I really want to be able to spin and mess around but I really don't have anywhere to shoot like that more than a few times a year.

Had a guy load my 62gn tsx barnes with 22gn ARcomp
Man I sure hope they shoot under an inch.
Stock vortex tsx shot under moa and a buddies old school 55gn tsx when they coated the whole bullet in blue polymer shot great. They were loaded "hot" he doesn't remember the charge,
Varget.

Hopefully it is picture worthy after bedding the lug earlier this year.




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Thread starter #14
What I have learned. I haven't got a hand load to shoot better than a factory load. I guess working on a load for person gun would be ideal. Playing with powder charges, case lenght and bullet depth.

The 62gn tsx with 22gn ARcomp shot 1.5"
But some holes were on top of one another.
He said cases had been used a few times and not trimmed. Makes since they won't shoot any better.

77gn smk in WCC seal team brass shoots well under an inch. Not sure there powder or load charge. But they are hot 5.56

I need to buy some vor-tx tsx factory loaded bullets and see if they print better.

Or a box of the federal fusions.

What's your thought on keeping a clean barrel or fowled barrel. My team buddy says all their rifles are well fowled. Groups may not be as good but for in the feild constancy a fowled barrel is more predictible.

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bryguy

Twelve Pointer
#15
powder has some effect on accuracy, but seating depth has more effec then most everything else............plus most ARs are only going to be so accurate, especially when you are dealing with mil spec stuff..........tolerances are so broad as to account for variances in ammo and such make it hard to get superb accuracy from a gun unless you want to dedicate brass to that rifle only and partial full length size for it blah blah..........i just gave up on reloading for my ARs and just shoot factory fodder.........factory ammo is so cheap now that i cant see investing the time and expense to reload 223/5.56 myself.........
 

TravisLH

Twelve Pointer
#16
What I have learned. I haven't got a hand load to shoot better than a factory load. I guess working on a load for you would be ideal. Playing with powder charges case lenght and bullet depth.

The 62gn tsx with 22gn ARcomp shot 1.5"
But some holes were on top of one another.
He said cases had been used a few times and not trimmed. Makes since they won't shoot any better.

77gn smk in WCC seal team brass shoots well under an inch. Not sure there powder or load charge. But they are hott. 5.56

I need to buy some vor-tx tsx factory loaded bullets and see if they print better.

Or a box of the federal fusions.

What's your thought on keeping a clean barrel or fowled barrel. My team buddy says all their rifles are well fowled. Groups may not be as good but for in the feild constancy a fowled barrel is more predictible.

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I always shoot fouled, if I do a detailed clean I’ll run 10 rounds of cheap ammo and a dry snake before I take it back to the field.


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#18
10 4 brguy on that swfa. I too have both the fixed power and variable type. They truly are amazing for the money. I also in the past was a Vortex fan mostly because back then they seemed to be slightly ahead of their competition. They had a better product and price. That has changed and I think they have lost some of their quality control. As the Dukeee s would say OVERRATED.