Traditional

woodmoose

Administrator
Staff member
Contributor
I follow my squirrel dogs with a traditional while looking for flys,,,,,,,,
 

adkarcher

Six Pointer
Went back to mostly hunting with trad muzzleloaders a few years ago (in muzzleloader season).
 

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Timber_life

Button Buck
What are y'all using to clean it when you put it up at the end of season? I've been having trouble keeping it clean unless I clean it every week.
 

nchawkeye

Old Mossy Horns
Get all the powder out the first time and you won't have to clean every week...I put a toothpick in the touch hole and pour water down the barrel, then pour it out...Do this 2-3 times, run 3-4 patches down...Soak a couple in rubbing alcohol, then 3-4 patches to dry...Spray WD-40 down, dry with patches and then light gun oil...I also leave an oiled patch in the cleaning rod during storage...
 

DarrinG

Six Pointer
What are y'all using to clean it when you put it up at the end of season? I've been having trouble keeping it clean unless I clean it every week.
nchawkeye gave good advice. I do similiar, but a little different when storing a BP rifle for awhile. Everyone seems to have their own regimen and nothing wrong with that.

I disassemble the rifle, barrel off, lock off. if percussion, nipple off. A warm (not hot, flash rust if really hot) 5 gallon bucket of water with Dawn dish soap. Drop lock and nipple down in bucket to soak. Put barrel breech end down in bucket and start running a patch up and down the barrel, it will act like a syphon pump and pump the soapy water up and down the barrel and out the bolster or touch hole. Youll see the soapy clean water start turning dirty quickly and see the swirling water if youre suction patch is working good. Once I pump water up/down several times the barrel I'll then take a cup of clean warm water and pour down barrel (out of soapy bucket) to rinse. Scrub lock and nipple (pipe cleaner works great as does a toothbrush). Once all clean I use my air compressor to blow moisture off lock, out of nipple and through bolster or touch hole down barrel blowing out moisture. Put a clean dry patch on range rod and start swabbing out barrel. Once you get a clean white patch to come out I then use Birchwood Casey "Barricade" to coat barrel inside and out and also to lightly coat lock mechanism. Wipe down stock and all the outside of the rifle with a very light coating of Barricade. Put away until next use. Never had any issues whatsoever using this method. I've used WD-40. Ballistol, Rem Oil....you name it, and personal opinion, nothing beats Barricade for storing a firearm. Before I use the rifle again I will fire one cap and then run a clean dry patch down barrel before loading powder to remove any residual oil that was coated in the barrel for rust protection.
 

adkarcher

Six Pointer
If I am able to shoot enough over the next year and feel comfortable/proficient enough, I will be taking this to the woods next year. .54 Cal Southern Mountain rifle (flintlock), built right here in NC by Kevin Blevins. I have a ways to go yet with a flinter....
 

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gremcat

Twelve Pointer
I’ve a RockLock for late season here in PA but last few years tagged out in archery. I very very stupidly passed up @Roundball’s last flintlock and regretted it ever since. As BP is unobtanium now I really regret it. I’m dying to squirrel hunt and bird hunt with one. I have been really hard on gear in these mountains so couldn’t shake the idea I’d just destroy it.

I fell down an ice chute that year. than drop 1k’ to my death as I slid I dug both sides of my Investarms upgraded Flinter into granite and it went from looking new to really beat in one day. My pre-64 model 70 first year .308 was pristine when bought as a donor. I took it up the far ridges and it’s bluing showed rust before I even got home. It’s stock had similar gashes to the Flinter.

It’s impossible thick Rhododendron only barely opening to sheer cliffs on rare occasions. Sadly, it was not a financial thing at all. I’ve been blessed there lately. I just couldn’t stomach the scratches and beatings it might take. I’ve no particularly attractive guns and any I have had with AAA or Exhibition wood quickly go so I don’t ruin them.

RB was a gentleman and he’s likely have kept me in powder/shot another 40 years Lord willing. Now as I again tagged out early I’m thinking of small game with a Flinter and RB’s offer was unrepeatable so I’m left to ponder 3x the cost for less gun or hunting for a 32 cal factory gun that seems beyond scarce.
 

CJF

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
I disassemble the rifle, barrel off, lock off. if percussion, nipple off. A warm (not hot, flash rust if really hot) 5 gallon bucket of water with Dawn dish soap. Drop lock and nipple down in bucket to soak. Put barrel breech end down in bucket and start running a patch up and down the barrel, it will act like a syphon pump and pump the soapy water up and down the barrel and out the bolster or touch hole. Youll see the soapy clean water start turning dirty quickly and see the swirling water if youre suction patch is working good. Once I pump water up/down several times the barrel I'll then take a cup of clean warm water and pour down barrel (out of soapy bucket) to rinse. Scrub lock and nipple (pipe cleaner works great as does a toothbrush). Once all clean I use my air compressor to blow moisture off lock, out of nipple and through bolster or touch hole down barrel blowing out moisture. Put a clean dry patch on range rod and start swabbing out barrel. Once you get a clean white patch to come out I then use Thompson Center Natural Lube Bore Butter. Put away until next use. Never had any issues whatsoever using this method. Before I use the rifle again I will fire one cap and then run a clean dry patch down barrel before loading powder to remove any residual oil that was coated in the barrel for rust protection.
 
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