Question about building a shop/garage

hitman6397

Twelve Pointer
I am debating on having a shop built at my house.I have no idea where to start. The only thing I know about them is build bigger than you think you need. Should I go with stick built or one of those metal buildings you see advertised in steals and deals. I want a concrete floor,electrical,heating and air. I have a spot a 30x40x10 will fit nicely. Any ideas,guesses at price and opinions are welcome.
 

kilerhamilton

Old Mossy Horns
Cement slab and 6x6 post is where I would go.
If you have monies the piped floor that you can water heat with an outdoor wood burning rig is nice.
Or nice wood stove inside.
Think about drains in the floor/ plumbing etc.

You can wire accordingly as to where you want power. 220-

Get permits

Insulated or not?
That spray insulation is sweet.

Garage doors?
Metal siding and roof will last forever. Hardy plank is an option.

Sounds like a fun project


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

hitman6397

Twelve Pointer
Cement slab and 6x6 post is where I would go.
If you have monies the piped floor that you can water heat with an outdoor wood burning rig is nice.
Or nice wood stove inside.
Think about drains in the floor/ plumbing etc.

You can wire accordingly as to where you want power. 220-

Get permits

Insulated or not?
That spray insulation is sweet.

Garage doors?
Metal siding and roof will last forever. Hardy plank is an option.

Sounds like a fun project


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At least 1 garage door, some kind if insulation(best and least expensive option) I havent checked into the permits yet.
 

timber

Twelve Pointer
Priced one a few years back 30x40x16. 6x6 post with metal roof and siding. The insulation was wrap on between the metal and wood. One 16’ ft wide roll up door and one 8’ roll up door. Think was around 20k then. That was concrete and building. Electrical want included. Probably add 15% to that now
 

Eric Revo

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
walls at least 10 ft high and a fairly steep pitch on the roof allows for a nice 2nd floor on at least part of the building. You can never have too much storage and if you let it that part will take over the mancave part. Better to dedicate the upstairs as the mancave, it's warmer up there in the wintertime anyway.
I went with a metal building and had someone put it up, if I had to do anything different I'd have a bigger garage door and install shelves the full length of the downstairs part before I started moving stuff in. Watch light placement as far as changing bulbs..I've got florescent bulbs that I can't reach due to ceiling height and accumulated junk.
 

FireDuck401

Ten Pointer
Contributor
I have a 25x50 metal shop, concrete pad.
Hot in summer. Cold in winter.
I have a woodstove inside, easily keeps it comfortable enough to work in there.
Summer is a different story, from noon to 1700....its hot.

Father in law has a stick built shop, insulated.
Much more comfortable space to be in regardless of outside temp.

LED light fixtures are a must.
 

dc bigdaddy

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
I have a Pre-engineered metal building. 24x36x10'. 2 10x8 doors on the front. I would not recommend that to you or anyone else. The carport style buildings seem to be popular. I know just enough about them that I would be dangerous . I know folks like them. But I think they like them because they're inexpensive.

Now, my opinion, if you want a man cave, build a man cave. I would consider a man cave to have tv, weight bench, card table, reloading bench, refrigerator, that kind of crap. A garage would hold tool boxs, tools, wood working or mechanical and don't mater if there's dirt on the floor or what.

How would I building my next one? Concrete slab with turn down footers/edge, 2' foot of 8" cmu (3 runs), 8' wood studs, this would give you 10' clearance. Anything less, you are limiting yourself. Roof system would be a truss system with a room built in them. you can buy your trusses all ready with the room framed in them. Make the upstairs your man cave, keep your boat and junk in the garage part. Insulate all of it and plywood the interior of the garage walls. Exterior, you have so much more choices than an ugly metal panel.

That's my opinion and it's worth what you paid for it.
 

Newsome Road

Ten Pointer
Stick built will insulate much better than one of those metal carport style buildings. I recently finished a steel building from Heritage. The company was awesome as far as working with me to get it designed the way I wanted it. The building is great, and it gives every impression that it will last forever. Its insulated, but its warm in there. I will be looking at different cooking methods before next summer! I'm hoping the wood heater will keep itwarm in winter, but havent put it to the test yet.
 

Soilman

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
I did a 20 x 20 a few months ago with Superior Metal Structures. They have a prices guide on their website, but it is not all inclusive. It ended up costing me a couple thousand more than the price guide indicated. However, they had a crew come out and do the leveling and cement one day. Several weeks later, after the concrete was good and hard, they came out and put the building up. It took them a grand total of 4 hours to do the building. The were pulling out of my yard at noon.
 

bwfarms

Old Mossy Horns
I was considering an exhaust fan for mine, but north/south wouldnt be an option based on my layout. Is the direction critical?

In the afternoon heat on the west side of the building (the sunlight
and metal fan) is drawn in. If it's shaded may not be a big deal.
 

greenoakl

Six Pointer
Another thing is your heat source. Most insurance companies will not insure it with a wood heater, even if it is installed to code. Been there done that.
 

dc bigdaddy

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
Air movement is what you are looking for. I'm not arguing the fact that you want it North/South, but I do know you want it moving, sucking the hot air out the top. In the summer, it's not going to make much difference, because all the air is hot, but the movement will help.
 

billyf

Four Pointer
I just put up a 30 x 60 metal bldg. from Metal depot out of Raleigh that came as a kit. This is not the carport style. This is the same style you would use if you were building a 100 x 250 bldg.. ..that is it has a main supporting beam every 20ft of length that supports the whole structure. The cost was:

Kit was $17k ... included all parts and insulation.
Concrete $6k..30yrds + labor to poor.
wire and lights <$2k

Did all the labor myself and 2 helpers (children) except I didn't poor the concrete. Only thing I would change if did again would be to go bigger...20200713_193715.jpg20200713_193753 (1).jpg
 

Scrub

Ten Pointer
Contributor
I built mine 20x30 on a monolithic slab with bolts all around the edge to secure floor plate. 2x4 walls insulated with OSB on outside and inside and a garage door on each end. Also laid a block flu for my woodstove I just expanded it to 30x46 added a 16x20 room in back where I can process deer,fish etc. I had about 2000’ board feet of ash I had cut into 1x6’s a few years ago I planed and used that on the walls of the room. Put a sink, counter space and a fridge for my beer. Words of advice you will never build it big enough.
 

witler

Eight Pointer
We recently looked at a 40x42 with 12' ceilings, 6x6 posts,, 4 standard garage doors, on concrete slab no electricity and no insulation.
We had a price/budget in mind. We called Morton Buildings, rep. came out, sat down with his laptop, punched in the figures. Then he blew us away with the price.....$87,000.00 needless to say we declined.

We are now considering a kit from 84 Lumber and doing our own labor except for concrete and electrical.
 

Dragnzdan

Button Buck
My shop is 33x40.
4 1/2 in think concrete 3500 psi w/ fiber. $ 5900.00
4 220v dedicated rec.
8 4x4 120v each on dedicated breaker
PVC conduit, electrical box, wire 900.00
Reclaimed metal from Carolina carport 1775.00
8 6x8x25 1200.00
14x16 roll up door( reclaimed from Carolina carports 850.00
Regular standard metal door reclaimed from Carolina carports 100.00
Lights 15 at 40$ ea

Mine is metal non insulated. If you plan on temp control. DO NOT GO METAL.
 

mekanizm

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
Around 2007/2008. 30x40 with 12' ceiling height. 6x6 post in the ground with only gravel holding it. Did all labor except concrete. 2x6 walls insulated. 4 roll-up uninsulated doors. Biggest mistake was not to recess the door threshholds to keep rain out. Biggest plus was to have doors on opposite end for cross ventilation. Extensively wired 120 and 240. 5/8 Plywood sheeted inside. Material cost 25K. Just added a 3 ton AC a few weeks back.
P9170923.JPG7_40.JPG9_40.JPGIMG_1279.JPG
 
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