• Just a heads up for those of you who use Tapatalk to access NCH&F. I will be removing support for that app effective immediately. The reasons are many, but the primary one is that it allows spammers to post here without first being authorized to do so. This, coupled with their increasingly aggressive and invasive ads and pop ups, has caused us to remove them from the site entirely.

Conibear 110 question?

red neck richie

Twelve Pointer
I had a buddy of mine give me a couple conibear 110's brand new he never used. My question is is there anyway to make the trigger more sensitive? This trap is super stiff. I put some olive oil on the trigger and dog. I even filed down the edges on the dog but its still real stiff.
 

kilerhamilton

Old Mossy Horns
Like a trigger. Clean and slick em metal parts up.
yes they are stif. A 30# beaver swimming into one will set it off no problem. You don’t want them real sensitive.
 

red neck richie

Twelve Pointer
I posed a link to a very good explanation of how to tune them. Go back up and click on the link.
I checked it out! I think I'm gonna do some more filing. Thanks! I appreciate it. You would think these manufacturers would know when their trigger is too stiff! I mean I get a hair trigger is just as bad but I dont want to have to hit a trap with a Truck to get it to fire either.
 

wl704

Six Pointer
How did you get your hand out of the 330
If you can keep a cool head, I used to keep a piece of rope with a bowline on one end in my pack. Fish the loose end through the eyes a couple times, foot in loop and pull with free hand...flipping that first catch is the challenge...
 
Last edited:

41magnum

Twelve Pointer
You would think these manufacturers would know when their trigger is too stiff! I mean I get a hair trigger is just as bad but I dont want to have to hit a trap with a Truck to get it to fire either.
nope, then they would cost 4x as much.
there are VERY FEW traps of any type that are ready to go "out of the box", basically only MB's are good to go.
 

41magnum

Twelve Pointer
I checked it out! I think I'm gonna do some more filing.
after the filing you should put the trigger yoke in your vise with the wires down, and tap the top to close the space/slop around the jaw. This makes the yoke hit the dog sooner. Just make sure it still swings freely.
 

SharpShooter

Ten Pointer
How did you get your hand out of the 330
I compressed the spring using my free hand, my knee and the trailer hitch on my truck. The 220 was the same but the springs are stronger and harder to compress and they are smaller and harder to use my knee to push them down. My connibears are not magnum style and do not close completely.
 

chumstain

Button Buck
I prefer a rope over setters for 220s and 330s. You don't want a loose trigger on a conibear. File the dog smooth but don't make the grooves any bigger.
 

41magnum

Twelve Pointer
There is nothing stabilizing the trap.
You almost have a acceptable mink/rat box made, but it needs to be bigger and longer so the trap slides back into the box. The spring would go back into a slot about three eights inch clearance for the spring Maybe 2 to 3 inches deep.
Also, the way it’s set now, the Trap will fly outword about out of control once tripped. The slot I mentioned for the spring helps the jaws fly straight.
 

mj1angier

Four Pointer
Any thing it hits, will slow down the trap jaws. Also with nothing on the sides, they can just run into the side or spring and knock it over/ set it off. With trap inside the box it acts as a funnel and stabilizes it
 

wl704

Six Pointer
I don't recall NC trapping laws, but I would hammer a jaw with 2 wire staples on leaning log,and chain under the log. A few branches to camouflage...

The 110s were also good for muskrat sets.
 

red neck richie

Twelve Pointer
There is nothing stabilizing the trap.
You almost have a acceptable mink/rat box made, but it needs to be bigger and longer so the trap slides back into the box. The spring would go back into a slot about three eights inch clearance for the spring Maybe 2 to 3 inches deep.
Also, the way it’s set now, the Trap will fly outword about out of control once tripped. The slot I mentioned for the spring helps the jaws fly straight.
Yeah I thought about it flying outward when tripped. Im gonna put some small sticks on the sides and push them into the ground to try and prevent that.
 

QuietButDeadly

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
What are you trying to catch? Are there any small domestic critters anywhere close that could be roaming by the trap location? What kind of bait are you putting in the box? Have you read and do you understand the trapping regulations?

You have been given some good advice about recessing the trap in the box
 

41magnum

Twelve Pointer
Any thing it hits, will slow down the trap jaws.
that's why ya put 2 pencil dia twigs under and perpendicular to the jaws, to act as slick ramps, kinda sorta....that is, IF you don't recess it in a box built to fit it.
A box will deter some non-targets, too.
As QBD asked.., bait will determine what is attracted, to a degree.
 

Mack in N.C.

Old Mossy Horns
I will post pics of mine soon. i made 2 boxes. each with a slit in the side for the spring so the trap sits in the box and not outside. I also have holes in the top and botton where I slide in a dowel to stabilize the trap.
I also have hinges on box so the box can be screwed to a house over a hole so for instance the critter/squirrel has to come out of the hole and then into the box.

1 of my boxes has a closed end so it is a cubby , the other is open at both ends to put over a hole in a structure.
 
Top