Sharps40
Old Mossy Horns
Here is what I have.
1937 Dodge 4 Door Sedan, 2850 lbs. 19 in vacuum. Disc/Drum 1" master with 7" dual diaphragm booster (fire wall mounted), new CPP PV2 valve, 71 Chevelle 12 bolt rear with rebuilt 9.5" factory drum brakes (new drum/shoes/cylinders) adjusted a tad snug, GM Metric front disc calipers on aftermarket independent suspension, all new hoses/lines, no leaks, no trapped air, pedal set for 5 to 1 ratio, push pin between booster and master is just a whisker off the piston and I get fluid movement in the master with the first 3/4 inch of stroke.
Situations:
Decent brakes but still a long stroke, will not lock up, don't inspire confidence for a panic stop as the all the braking is at the bottom of the stroke. It has never been a feel where the brake action starts working well at a half stroke, its all at the bottom. I think I can feel it bottom out on hard stops.
Things were well till I changed the axle bearings, when I reassembled the ebrake levers under the drum bound and the rear drums overheated (IR gun said 400 F on the drums immediately on parking the car), they are light straw to gold colored inside. (Light straw to gold color on steel indicates 450 to 550F ) After cooling off I got a brake warning light and pedal went to floor/barely stopped. Then it was fine. Then it did it again, then was fine. No fluid loss at all. So I have sanded rear shoes, rechecked master, bled all four 3 times/no air, readjusted rear shoes, etc.... I got the warning light again just at start up. Went out and all was well, lots of hard stops, no light but still not a confident system for panic stops, Final temp on the drums today after all the work was 200F.
Questions:
1. When the drums went to 400F/turned light straw/gold color, have I ruined them, the shoes and cylinders?
2. Assuming I maintain a 5 to 1 pedal ratio, would a larger 1 1/8 master cylinder provide me less stroke and perhaps better stopping feel (i.e. feel like brakes are working at mid stroke rather than always at the bottom of the stroke)?
1937 Dodge 4 Door Sedan, 2850 lbs. 19 in vacuum. Disc/Drum 1" master with 7" dual diaphragm booster (fire wall mounted), new CPP PV2 valve, 71 Chevelle 12 bolt rear with rebuilt 9.5" factory drum brakes (new drum/shoes/cylinders) adjusted a tad snug, GM Metric front disc calipers on aftermarket independent suspension, all new hoses/lines, no leaks, no trapped air, pedal set for 5 to 1 ratio, push pin between booster and master is just a whisker off the piston and I get fluid movement in the master with the first 3/4 inch of stroke.
Situations:
Decent brakes but still a long stroke, will not lock up, don't inspire confidence for a panic stop as the all the braking is at the bottom of the stroke. It has never been a feel where the brake action starts working well at a half stroke, its all at the bottom. I think I can feel it bottom out on hard stops.
Things were well till I changed the axle bearings, when I reassembled the ebrake levers under the drum bound and the rear drums overheated (IR gun said 400 F on the drums immediately on parking the car), they are light straw to gold colored inside. (Light straw to gold color on steel indicates 450 to 550F ) After cooling off I got a brake warning light and pedal went to floor/barely stopped. Then it was fine. Then it did it again, then was fine. No fluid loss at all. So I have sanded rear shoes, rechecked master, bled all four 3 times/no air, readjusted rear shoes, etc.... I got the warning light again just at start up. Went out and all was well, lots of hard stops, no light but still not a confident system for panic stops, Final temp on the drums today after all the work was 200F.
Questions:
1. When the drums went to 400F/turned light straw/gold color, have I ruined them, the shoes and cylinders?
2. Assuming I maintain a 5 to 1 pedal ratio, would a larger 1 1/8 master cylinder provide me less stroke and perhaps better stopping feel (i.e. feel like brakes are working at mid stroke rather than always at the bottom of the stroke)?