Mr.Gadget
Old Mossy Horns
Guys
Thought I would add a few layout pictures of just some of the AR tools used or needed so if you are starting to build then it may help you or give you some ideas.
Goint to be basic pictures of the tools. Feel free to ask about them and more in depth information.
Will not cover them all so just ask.
First up are some basic tools needed to hold or support the upper or lower.
Some of the basic tool work on MilSpec but do not for custom uppers and lowers.
The Clam Shell is maybe the easiest and best for the standard uppers. It clamps around the upper and hold it firm and you can flip it to work on top or bottom of the barrel like setting the gas block set screws. Far left, the item under it is for supping the inside of the upper.
Top center are some upper blocks you can mount in the vise and will use pins to hold the upper. Works on all type uppers.
Top center and right are a set of barrel blocks, leather padded jaws for the vise and bronze along with soft jaws made to hold about anything. They work good to clam stuff if you plan to use a hammer just due to flex and don't mark items up.
Bottom are the mag blocks for the AR15 and Ar10, they will let you clamp the lower in the vise and rotate it up or down. They will also stick into the top for working on the bottom of the lower. Not in picture they make 9mm, 40, 45 blocks to hold them also. Bottom is a Magpul Block. It locks into the uppers on the barrel ext and uses a pin to hold it. Also flip up and it fits the lower in the mag well to hold it. The 2 rods are reaction rods is what they call them. They can clamp into a vise or use a breaker bar. They lock into the barrel extension and work good to service the upper. It will rotate easy just slide the upper out 1" then rotate to what is needed and push back. It also works for barrel nuts or using a torque tool.
Bottom right is a upper block. It fits up to the bottom of the upper and clamps the upper on its side in a vise. You must use another jaw when clamping as it presses and clamps against the rail.
Next are some of the wrenches, tools needed to do barrel nuts, stock, flash hider.
What you have here are basic wrenches, You get what you pay for. The better ones are 1/4" of more thick the other are cheap and hard on the hands. A good wrench will feel good in the hand and also have a place to add a torque wrench.
Top center is a DTI wrench, Cheap, kills you hand and can screw up parts. Under it is a Brownells tool, very heavy built this and works great. Not in the picture as I forgot, the Magpul Wrench. They fit great, tight and heavy duty. I can add a picture later. They are the best I have used for a combo wrench.
Also some basic MWI wrenches for FF tubes. Next to those 3 is one of the best barrel nut wrenches I have used. It connects on several slots and holds great. Just add breaker bar or torque wrench. To the right are some receiver ext wrenches, Ext Nut. The thin ones work but the heavy one on the right or the HD on on the combo wrench do far better. Bottom you have tool Blocks, front hand guard remover leather working pad, and a few vises that are use to press the trigger guard in and out. I never hammer on a trigger guard. I press it in with a vise and tool I made that holds the pin in place.
Basic hammers and punches with small tools.
What you have her are the longer T handle driver to install and remove the grips and FF hand guard. USGI in a screw driver, I convert mine over to the Magpul screw that uses both. Also basic hammers. Bigger pin bigger hammer and smaller use the smaller.
You see the small punches used for the small roll pins like gas tube and other bolt or upper and lower parts. Nice to have the correct tools and smaller shorter to work with. The stack of punches are ones I make. I use brass rod, drill them out and they hold the roll pins to start and drive 50% in. There are several different pins so I have different lengths. THe long one is for the bolt stop, it has tape on it and the hammer is behind the lower so does not let you bang up the lower. The center silver pin fits inside the bolt key, it extends into the upper (with no gas tube) to check barrel nut and everything is in line. The pins with the round balls are to install the hammer and trigger. It will let you use them to install, test or work with the FCG. Makes it easy to line up and install the normal pins.
You also have a stock wrench and a USGI barrel wrench combo tool. Only use them in a jam they will ding up the barrel nut but work great flash hider and A2 stock tube. The little vise is for working on the Bolt. It helps you take it apart and replace springs.
Nest to the hammer on the bottom is a take down pin tool. It fits into the spot from the back side and stick the spring and pin. Just slide the spring and pin in the hole, press down then rotate. It holds it in place then stick your pin in and push it out.
Hold for more details
Close up of my roll pin tools. I drill the hole and round the ends. also a plastic punch to the right that works on pins that are stuck.
Thought I would add a few layout pictures of just some of the AR tools used or needed so if you are starting to build then it may help you or give you some ideas.
Goint to be basic pictures of the tools. Feel free to ask about them and more in depth information.
Will not cover them all so just ask.
First up are some basic tools needed to hold or support the upper or lower.
Some of the basic tool work on MilSpec but do not for custom uppers and lowers.
The Clam Shell is maybe the easiest and best for the standard uppers. It clamps around the upper and hold it firm and you can flip it to work on top or bottom of the barrel like setting the gas block set screws. Far left, the item under it is for supping the inside of the upper.
Top center are some upper blocks you can mount in the vise and will use pins to hold the upper. Works on all type uppers.
Top center and right are a set of barrel blocks, leather padded jaws for the vise and bronze along with soft jaws made to hold about anything. They work good to clam stuff if you plan to use a hammer just due to flex and don't mark items up.
Bottom are the mag blocks for the AR15 and Ar10, they will let you clamp the lower in the vise and rotate it up or down. They will also stick into the top for working on the bottom of the lower. Not in picture they make 9mm, 40, 45 blocks to hold them also. Bottom is a Magpul Block. It locks into the uppers on the barrel ext and uses a pin to hold it. Also flip up and it fits the lower in the mag well to hold it. The 2 rods are reaction rods is what they call them. They can clamp into a vise or use a breaker bar. They lock into the barrel extension and work good to service the upper. It will rotate easy just slide the upper out 1" then rotate to what is needed and push back. It also works for barrel nuts or using a torque tool.
Bottom right is a upper block. It fits up to the bottom of the upper and clamps the upper on its side in a vise. You must use another jaw when clamping as it presses and clamps against the rail.
Next are some of the wrenches, tools needed to do barrel nuts, stock, flash hider.
What you have here are basic wrenches, You get what you pay for. The better ones are 1/4" of more thick the other are cheap and hard on the hands. A good wrench will feel good in the hand and also have a place to add a torque wrench.
Top center is a DTI wrench, Cheap, kills you hand and can screw up parts. Under it is a Brownells tool, very heavy built this and works great. Not in the picture as I forgot, the Magpul Wrench. They fit great, tight and heavy duty. I can add a picture later. They are the best I have used for a combo wrench.
Also some basic MWI wrenches for FF tubes. Next to those 3 is one of the best barrel nut wrenches I have used. It connects on several slots and holds great. Just add breaker bar or torque wrench. To the right are some receiver ext wrenches, Ext Nut. The thin ones work but the heavy one on the right or the HD on on the combo wrench do far better. Bottom you have tool Blocks, front hand guard remover leather working pad, and a few vises that are use to press the trigger guard in and out. I never hammer on a trigger guard. I press it in with a vise and tool I made that holds the pin in place.
Basic hammers and punches with small tools.
What you have her are the longer T handle driver to install and remove the grips and FF hand guard. USGI in a screw driver, I convert mine over to the Magpul screw that uses both. Also basic hammers. Bigger pin bigger hammer and smaller use the smaller.
You see the small punches used for the small roll pins like gas tube and other bolt or upper and lower parts. Nice to have the correct tools and smaller shorter to work with. The stack of punches are ones I make. I use brass rod, drill them out and they hold the roll pins to start and drive 50% in. There are several different pins so I have different lengths. THe long one is for the bolt stop, it has tape on it and the hammer is behind the lower so does not let you bang up the lower. The center silver pin fits inside the bolt key, it extends into the upper (with no gas tube) to check barrel nut and everything is in line. The pins with the round balls are to install the hammer and trigger. It will let you use them to install, test or work with the FCG. Makes it easy to line up and install the normal pins.
You also have a stock wrench and a USGI barrel wrench combo tool. Only use them in a jam they will ding up the barrel nut but work great flash hider and A2 stock tube. The little vise is for working on the Bolt. It helps you take it apart and replace springs.
Nest to the hammer on the bottom is a take down pin tool. It fits into the spot from the back side and stick the spring and pin. Just slide the spring and pin in the hole, press down then rotate. It holds it in place then stick your pin in and push it out.
Hold for more details
Close up of my roll pin tools. I drill the hole and round the ends. also a plastic punch to the right that works on pins that are stuck.
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