Any Idea on Cost to lift Outboard?

JONOV

Old Mossy Horns
Does anyone have any idea what it would cost to move an outboard up two pins? Its a 115 Yam Two Stroke and its on a trailer so I'm not worried about transport/delivery. "Seems Like" it would be simple and quick for a shop that had a hoist/lift but you never know.
 

nccatfisher

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
About $90-125. per hour. I am guessing they are going to hit you for about an hour and a half.
 

Mr.Gadget

Old Mossy Horns
Does anyone have any idea what it would cost to move an outboard up two pins? Its a 115 Yam Two Stroke and its on a trailer so I'm not worried about transport/delivery. "Seems Like" it would be simple and quick for a shop that had a hoist/lift but you never know.
Its easy I have done several have a back yard lift to do them.
The biggest problem being it is 2 stroke you have an older engine.
Lots of times you need to break the bolts to get it off. Not really a big deal just need to tools.
Also no matter who does it use new SS hardware of a know good brand or order factory replacment bolt kit.
Are you sure you need to lift it?
Are you sure you have a prop to run?
Could end up costing you more to lift and then lower back if it dont work.
Also if you lift it you may spend more after the fact turning RPM needing a new prop.
One of mine I went from 15 to 17P.
I would check with a good shop and place so they may work with you on trying props or have the background knowing what will and will not work..
Be a good time to look at jack plate or steering upgrade as some require you remove the motor to fit the rod or cable. My Keywest required removing the motor to fit the rod in.
If close to wake county I have a friend that will do it.
 

JONOV

Old Mossy Horns
Its easy I have done several have a back yard lift to do them.
The biggest problem being it is 2 stroke you have an older engine.
Lots of times you need to break the bolts to get it off. Not really a big deal just need to tools.
Also no matter who does it use new SS hardware of a know good brand or order factory replacment bolt kit.
Are you sure you need to lift it?
Are you sure you have a prop to run?
Could end up costing you more to lift and then lower back if it dont work.
Also if you lift it you may spend more after the fact turning RPM needing a new prop.
One of mine I went from 15 to 17P.
I would check with a good shop and place so they may work with you on trying props or have the background knowing what will and will not work..
Be a good time to look at jack plate or steering upgrade as some require you remove the motor to fit the rod or cable. My Keywest required removing the motor to fit the rod in.
If close to wake county I have a friend that will do it.
Thanks everyone for the thoughts. I'm in Wake County but the boat spends a fair amount of time in Wilmington. The cliff notes version is this: 19 ft 1996 century that belongs to my Father-in-law. Has a 115 Yamaha 2 stroke, and a T-Top. FIL hates boats. MIL doesn't like boats. FIL lost his free storage area, asked if we wanted to take it to Raleigh. I dragged a non-running boat to Raleigh. Fixed the electrical problem, got the boat running. Its slow. Really Slow. Always has been. Gets up on plane, but slow as smell, and the engine seems to be running really well. Its been a common complaint since I started dating my wife, and she complains about it too.

When I look at it on a trailer, it looks like its about 6 inches too low. I haven't considered the prop needing replacement, and that's also on the list of things to investigate.

Unfortunately, as of right now the tilt-trim isn't working so its back to you-tube I go to try and fix that part of it.
 

Mr.Gadget

Old Mossy Horns
All the boats that were good then turned to slow, real slow were due to water.
That boat has wood and foam if I remember.
Better weight the boat to see if it has sucked up water in the foam or wood.
Before doing any more make sure the boat is not the problem.
What pitch prop? Bent up? Factory or cheap aftermarket? RPM
Too big a prop will also make it run slow. Too big a prop will lower the motor out of the power.
My guess that prop should be 17p to 19p max and make 5800 rpm range
 

JONOV

Old Mossy Horns
Tilt/trim working would be the first thing I did before trying to adjust height.
Agreed. That problem presented itself yesterday afternoon. Monday night I lowered it to run some seafoam through, and raised it back to take it out to the lake, got it on the ramp and it wouldn't lower. Hopefully I can resolve it this evening.
All the boats that were good then turned to slow, real slow were due to water.
That boat has wood and foam if I remember.
Better weight the boat to see if it has sucked up water in the foam or wood.
Before doing any more make sure the boat is not the problem.
What pitch prop? Bent up? Factory or cheap aftermarket? RPM
Too big a prop will also make it run slow. Too big a prop will lower the motor out of the power.
My guess that prop should be 17p to 19p max and make 5800 rpm range
It does have wood and foam. It spent half its life in a slip and half its life on a trailer parked in a treeline, owned by someone that didn't know it had a drain plug. If a hurricane threatened Wilmington it got pulled out for the winter, otherwise not. The floor seems solid, when I drive it there's no flexing that you would expect from rotten stringers.
 

Wanchese

Twelve Pointer
The floor seems solid, when I drive it there's no flexing that you would expect from rotten stringers.
If it's got foam in it, there won't be much flex. Expanding foam poured between a hull and deck is as much of a structural component as the stringers are in a lot of fiberglass boats.
 

Mr.Gadget

Old Mossy Horns
Agreed. That problem presented itself yesterday afternoon. Monday night I lowered it to run some seafoam through, and raised it back to take it out to the lake, got it on the ramp and it wouldn't lower. Hopefully I can resolve it this evening.

It does have wood and foam. It spent half its life in a slip and half its life on a trailer parked in a treeline, owned by someone that didn't know it had a drain plug. If a hurricane threatened Wilmington it got pulled out for the winter, otherwise not. The floor seems solid, when I drive it there's no flexing that you would expect from rotten stringers.
Only way to know is to weigh it.
Find known weights for extras, motor, trailer and see what it looks like.
I have seen several that were waterlogged and holding 100s of pounds off water.
Some do not have all areas able to drain. CS had a big problem with it.

Only way to knkw is weight, or drill and sample.
 

SharpShooter

Ten Pointer
First thing I would do is call a good prop shoP with actual speed vs rpm numbers and let them know what brand and size/pitch prop you have on which motor and the actual year and model of the boat. Ken at Propgods in Florida helped me. I had a Carolina skiff dlv that would run 15kts wide open. Gave him the numbers and he wanted the measurement rom the center of the prop to the bottom of the hull. He then asked me to raise the motor as high as I could (which was 2 holes) and test it. It would then jump up on plane aNd run 25kys wide open and with a slight trim go up to 29.5-30kts without porpoising. He was happy with that and saved me money on a new prop. The cost to me was 4 stainless botlts,washers and locknuts. I used my forklift at the office it raise it myself. Give Ken a call. A new prop may be needed or it could be something much simpler.
 

pattersonj11

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
First thing I would do is call a good prop shoP with actual speed vs rpm numbers and let them know what brand and size/pitch prop you have on which motor and the actual year and model of the boat. Ken at Propgods in Florida helped me. I had a Carolina skiff dlv that would run 15kts wide open. Gave him the numbers and he wanted the measurement rom the center of the prop to the bottom of the hull. He then asked me to raise the motor as high as I could (which was 2 holes) and test it. It would then jump up on plane aNd run 25kys wide open and with a slight trim go up to 29.5-30kts without porpoising. He was happy with that and saved me money on a new prop. The cost to me was 4 stainless botlts,washers and locknuts. I used my forklift at the office it raise it myself. Give Ken a call. A new prop may be needed or it could be something much simpler.

Keep in mind when people help you like this to consider them highly on future business even if the price may be higher. Write them a thank you note or send them something around the holidays and remind them of the event. That means a lot. I’ve had a couple instances where people have sent letters in for small services or small fixes to a problem that there was no charge for. It means a lot. Plenty of folks out there could have tried taking you down a spendy road.
 

ducknut

Eight Pointer
You need to get your engine hight correct before messing with props. If your engine is 6" low then the cavitation plate is under water. This can really slow the boat down. Causing a bow high ride and slow time to plane and slow speeds. Have you measured your transom? Measured shaft length? Sounds like the wrong length motor for the transom. After taking those measurements next step is to launch the boat. With someone else running it look over the transom. While on plane the cavitation plate should be slightly out of the water. Do those things first before spending $$
 

Mechanic Bob

Eight Pointer
Trim and Tilt issues. Same problem at the helm as at the motor? If yes. try plugging the bullet connectors and then put them back together. Also make sure there are no exposed wires. If that does not solve the problem, it may be the relays, as it worked once, but not now.
 

Mr.Gadget

Old Mossy Horns
Hard to tell. Need to lower the motor and turn it so you take a picture straight under the bottom of the boat.
That looks like a hybrid boat. They are always set up different than a flat or V.
Are there 3 drain plugs?
All 3 chambers dry?
 

nccatfisher

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
Angles are misleading but it appears that motor when all the way down is considerably too low. I really don't know why a professional would set it that low if it is as low as it appears when all the way down. It appears to me that it is close to 3-4" too low.
 
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