1st time Attempting fletching arrows - advice needed

WNCTracker

Eight Pointer
I got a great deal on some arrows but didn’t like the vanes so I decided to refletch them myself. I’ve stripped them, removed the glue, cut them to length, glued the inserts, and have them ready to fletch but before I do I thought I’d ask the forum for advice so I don’t repeat any mistakes you may have made in your learning curve. I ordered blazer vanes and an Arizona ez fletch right helical. I bought bohning fletch glue. I’ve watched videos and read old forums but I’m still uncertain:

1) To use arrow wraps or not?

2) Whether spine alignment matters regarding vane placement? (I don’t really understand the spine alignment to begin with).


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Eric Revo

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
clean the shafts really good, rubbing alcohol works, then clean them again.
flex the shafts and mark the spine, hen feather down on the spine always worked for me.
 

Loganwayne

Ten Pointer
Use a cue tip to clean up the excess glue. I use the faster setting stuff.

I prefer to use the same color fletchings for all 3 or 4 of mine and then knock tune and mark them with a sharpie


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Eric Revo

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
How do you flex it?


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Hold bu each end, roll the shaft with your fingers, you'll feel the shaft flex more and less as you turn it. Mark the shaft with a sharpie or whiteout marker and put a hen feather along that line.
Your cock feather should be close to a 90 degree from the spine as long as you shoot cock feather down.
 

WNCTracker

Eight Pointer
Hold bu each end, roll the shaft with your fingers, you'll feel the shaft flex more and less as you turn it. Mark the shaft with a sharpie or whiteout marker and put a hen feather along that line.
Your cock feather should be close to a 90 degree from the spine as long as you shoot cock feather down.

I’ll try rolling them. I’ve been shooting with the odd colored vane straight up though. Is that wrong? I use a virtus drop away if that makes a difference.


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georgeeebuck

Ten Pointer
Those Bemans are good shafts if spine is correct for your set up. I like to use arrow wraps ( white) seems to help in keeping the fletching from coming off with that shaft and glue . White wraps make it easer to find in the dark on a pass thru and in checking for blood color. As far as how to orientate the shafts spine to the fletching I have payed no attention to it after my wood arrow days but i know some that do.
 

Eric Revo

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
I’ll try rolling them. I’ve been shooting with the odd colored vane straight up though. Is that wrong? I use a virtus drop away if that makes a difference.


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With a properly set up drop away rest it won't make any difference.
The spine being at 90 degrees to the string limits flex.
 

Eric Revo

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
Eric I was under the impression that stiff side up was for release shooters and stiff side out was for finger shooters. - maybe I’m wrong.
That's news to me... I always set mine up at 90 degrees to the string for release. I could be wrong too.. it's been a long time since I shot seriously.
 

WNCTracker

Eight Pointer
1: if I’m bending the arrow with my hand with the end resting on a table while rolling it and I come to the point where the arrow bends the least. Is the stiff side of the shaft the side that’s in contact with my palm or is it the opposite side that is facing the table? I’ve watched and read too many videos and I’m confused now.

2: If I shoot with the “stiff”side down (6 o’clock)is it ok to still fletch the cock vane up (at 12 o’clock) on the “weak” side?


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DBCooper

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
1. Arrow squaring device

2. Insert tuning (if it’s weighted). If it’s std insert.....don’t bother. Spin your BH, to find this.

3. I’m getting away from wraps, because of FOC......but they’re great for helping fletching sticks AND they’re helpful finding arrows, if you use reflective wraps.

4. Nock tune. You may or may not want to go through this step.

5. Now, you know how to orient your blazers.

I expect this process (I’m adding weight to my front end, so I’m in the same boat you’re in, except I have a bitzenberger and do a left helical) to take 30 mins/arrow......before I start fletching.
 

ScottyB

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
Holy bat crap Batman, clean the damn shafts glue the blazers on..... make sure the vanes don’t hit cable/ string when shooting......practice practice practice...... been working fine for me for 30 years....... when you get really comfortable shooting..... you can paper tune a little if necessary......and I’m not knocking what all has been presented above..... it’s as simple or as complicated as you want it to be!
 

sky hawk

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
I highly prefer using wraps - white. Fletchings WILL adhere better. And they will be easier to refletch. And they are great for tracking your arrow in flight, finding them after the shot, and assessing the hit. That white wrap gives a very good background for determining blood/sign after a hit.

I think many archers split hairs over aspects that have littel real-world effect on their accuracy. The single biggest source of error that dwarfs every other aspect is the shooter. Don't overthink it, especially when getting started.

Wraps don't weigh that much. If you are into high FOC or XFOC, you are adding a LOT of weight to the front that will make the weight of that wrap irrelevant. The benefits are worth it.
 

DBCooper

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
I highly prefer using wraps - white. Fletchings WILL adhere better. And they will be easier to refletch. And they are great for tracking your arrow in flight, finding them after the shot, and assessing the hit. That white wrap gives a very good background for determining blood/sign after a hit.

I think many archers split hairs over aspects that have littel real-world effect on their accuracy. The single biggest source of error that dwarfs every other aspect is the shooter. Don't overthink it, especially when getting started.

Wraps don't weigh that much. If you are into high FOC or XFOC, you are adding a LOT of weight to the front that will make the weight of that wrap irrelevant. The benefits are worth it.

It's not the accuracy I'm trying to maximize. Going through the steps I mention won't necessarily improve your POI..

It's the penetration that comes from an arrow flying as true as it can fly, in my setup, that I'm after. Shooting traditional bows, exclusively, for a few years.....taught me the importance of an arrow flying as straight as it can possibly fly.

I don't care how anyone else does it. Man asked a couple questions.....I answered 'em :)
 

sky hawk

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
It's the penetration that comes from an arrow flying as true as it can fly, in my setup, that I'm after. Shooting traditional bows, exclusively, for a few years.....taught me the importance of an arrow flying as straight as it can possibly fly.
My point was if I’m not getting good arrow flight, it’s not because my fletchings are misaligned with the spine.
 

DBCooper

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
My point was if I’m not getting good arrow flight, it’s not because my fletchings are misaligned with the spine.

It certainly won’t affect your POI. And, with a FP, it won’t matter, at all.

I’ve never tried to align my fletching with the arrow’s spine, so I can’t speak to that.
 
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