Ain’t that the truth. They were absolutely the worst cylinders I have ever seen.View attachment 151513
Yup, those needed replacing! I have never seen a piston corroded that bad.
Ain’t that the truth. They were absolutely the worst cylinders I have ever seen.View attachment 151513
35+ years of sittingYup, those needed replacing! I have never seen a piston corroded that bad.
Sure looks better than what you started with.
It is, those rear drums were nastier than the front. Lots of black dust vs the brown, rusty dust up front. I sneezed & blew out some nasty looking black snot rockets when I cleaned up tonight.Sure looks better than what you started with.
The oddball parts search is still continuing. I ordered shocks that were OEM style replacements. Front shocks fit, rear ones were a different design.
The style I ordered for the rear, based on the computer at O’Riely’s.
View attachment 151887
What the car actually requires.
View attachment 151888
The correct shocks I bought at Carquest are for a ‘65 Mercury Comet station wagon. Studs on both ends instead of one stud and one eyelet design of what I initially bought.
This thing has fought me every step of the way. Darayl had to bring over his cutting torch because the shocks on the car had flats milled on the studs larger than the specialized MAC socket designed for shock studs. Without that socket the stud rotates with the shock housing. Between the cutting torch and 5 sawz-all blades, the shocks gave up the ghost. Kudos to Darayl for that.
Those black are correct rear shocks on a lot of Fords, but I see where they are labeled front. I did not catch that, but luckily I did not buy them. Those are identical to what I ordered, mine were Gabriel brand. I ended up with Monroe rear shocks and Gabriel fronts.I think they have that black shock listed completely wrong as that is a rear shock. I have never seen a car with that design on the front. The eyelet end goes over a post on a bracket at the axle or install the supplied post on the shock with the other end going through a hole in the bracket.
but I see where they are labeled front. I did not catch that, but luckily I did not buy them.
I bought the rears local from the Carquest in Spindale. They have a very knowledgeable Ford guy and a former GMC parts manager on staff and they have been provided superior service & knowledge. They are more expensive, but the one on one and knowledge is worth it.
I agree. The center, rear hose Lori ordered last night is wrong. It is a 3/8 & 7/16 thread for brake lines. Mine is 3/8 & 3/8”. NO ONE at these parts houses pays any attention to the details. So I actually looked up my part on O’Riely’s website and verified the brake line thread size was 3/8” on each end. I gave the key puncher the part# to order, but now another 24 hr delay.Sometimes I wish that they would just let me look up my own parts myself. Move out of the way and let me work the computer then they can check me out
Had a bad experience like this once while doing electrical work. Been over 30 years, but ever since, I've never installed conduit (or pipe), without bore-sighting it first.So the bad luck parade continues! And a new lesson learned. The new rear brake line junction block was blocked. Darayl (@NCbowjunkie) came by after breakfast to work with me on bleeding the brakes. I had bled the MC on Thursday. View attachment 152591
I have never had a brand new line come out of the package defective. I will never leave the store with another brake line me that has not been checked for air flow.
Yeah, new lesson learned & I shared it here so others can learn. They gave me a bottle of brake fluid for my trouble, so that is a plus.Had a bad experience like this once while doing electrical work. Been over 30 years, but ever since, I've never installed conduit (or pipe), without bore-sighting it first.
I can commiserate with you on electrical gremlins. I have owned about 30 different air cooled VWs and the wiring in those are absolute crap. Especially after so many owners/stereos/mods/repairs through their lifespan. I have owned an Opel GT & a Manta and they were both possessed by electrical gremlins.I am getting just a small dose of what you are going through. I recently bought a project tractor to pass the time. It was a decent tractor really but had some electrical gremlins from setting in a barn and rodent damage. I just started at the battery and removed all the wiring and completely rewired it and updated it to a modern alternator. When I fired it up, no charge.
I spent two days double checking my wiring, the alternator and everything in between. I was at a loss. I woke up at 3a.m. last night thinking about it and it hit me that the one thing I hadn't checked was the new ammeter I had installed. I had checked to make sure that it was wired in correct but didn't check to make sure it was good allowing the circuit to complete.
I got up this morning and went out there this morning and jumped across the polls on the meter and fired it up and checked it and it was charging just fine. Another brand new part not worth a crap.
Well if it will make you feel better this tractor had the same bullet fuses in it at the start that VWs used to have. It has a conventional fuse panel now.I can commiserate with you on electrical gremlins. I have owned about 30 different air cooled VWs and the wiring in those are absolute crap. Especially after so many owners/stereos/mods/repairs through their lifespan. I have owned an Opel GT & a Manta and they were both possessed by electrical gremlins.
My daughter wants me to rebuild her an air cooled bug. I would start by ordering a new wiring harness and a disc brake conversion before ever turning a wrench.
Air cooled VWs are why I hate drum brakes btw![]()
Smart conversion!Well if it will make you feel better this tractor had the same bullet fuses in it at the start that VWs used to have. It has a conventional fuse panel now.
Thank youGood job, looking good