1937 Dodge D5 4 Door Humpback Touring Sedan

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
BigTen, tuff decision. So much of the car was done out of order by the shop and very little fitting, body or mechanical. Fortunately, for 82 years old the car was pretty straight and the major components of the parts car lined up well. But ride height was never set and currently the front MI2 suspension is little more than welded in place. Car is sitting on 2" raised spindles as we want to be at near factory ride height and rake when completed. Regular MI2 rakes too much with our use of NOS semielliptic rear springs and shackles.

When the LS/4L60E and sheet metal were in place the front bumper brackets were 1 7/8" higher than the rear. Front coils are not cut yet and so long they bow and bind the shocks even with all the weight on....so.......much to do there.

For now it looks like the long straight sections of the frame, at the mid point of the wheelbase are at 0 to 1 degree up. I'm planning to go with 0 and assume this it the error in my inexpensive angle finder.

Given that (and I do plan to use the rear of the transmission for up/down adjustment as I have room and a simple under the frame mounting) I want to drop the nose of the engine first. Engine is currently sitting on top of the frame and the angle through the crank to the trans output shaft is 10 degrees.

The carb pad is sitting at 6 degrees down angle (I believe the carb pad is 4 degrees from the factory). Currently it looks like your estimate and my measurements line up, about 3/8 to 1/2 down on the nose or up on the tail should get the engine about right.

Taking it one axis at a time. With left/right established (l/r could change if i need to offset to PS side for steering clearance though), I can drop the nose/raise the tail and that will allow me to move the power pack back a bit more. Even a half inch rear will make a difference. (I'm not wedded to a large cap HEI but they sure are reliable than a pertronics conversion and much less expensive than a small cap hei with vacuum) If possible, I'd like to have a steel fan between radiator and short pump augmented by a pusher fan (in order to overbuild cooling for our hot summers).

I suppose in short, before bolting in the front mounts, I'm going to drop the nose of the motor, then remove the front wheels and drop the front end about 2" to see how the angles look.

Goodness knows what the rear pinion angle will be, as it was welded in without any consideration for weight/rake, etc. If I'm fortunate, shims, if not, I'll have to get someone with a mobile welder over to cut off the pads and weld them back on. On the good side, they got left/right correct on the rear axle!
 

bigten

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
BigTen, tuff decision. So much of the car was done out of order by the shop and very little fitting, body or mechanical. Fortunately, for 82 years old the car was pretty straight and the major components of the parts car lined up well. But ride height was never set and currently the front MI2 suspension is little more than welded in place. Car is sitting on 2" raised spindles as we want to be at near factory ride height and rake when completed. Regular MI2 rakes too much with our use of NOS semielliptic rear springs and shackles.

When the LS/4L60E and sheet metal were in place the front bumper brackets were 1 7/8" higher than the rear. Front coils are not cut yet and so long they bow and bind the shocks even with all the weight on....so.......much to do there.

For now it looks like the long straight sections of the frame, at the mid point of the wheelbase are at 0 to 1 degree up. I'm planning to go with 0 and assume this it the error in my inexpensive angle finder.

Given that (and I do plan to use the rear of the transmission for up/down adjustment as I have room and a simple under the frame mounting) I want to drop the nose of the engine first. Engine is currently sitting on top of the frame and the angle through the crank to the trans output shaft is 10 degrees.

The carb pad is sitting at 6 degrees down angle (I believe the carb pad is 4 degrees from the factory). Currently it looks like your estimate and my measurements line up, about 3/8 to 1/2 down on the nose or up on the tail should get the engine about right.

Taking it one axis at a time. With left/right established (l/r could change if i need to offset to PS side for steering clearance though), I can drop the nose/raise the tail and that will allow me to move the power pack back a bit more. Even a half inch rear will make a difference. (I'm not wedded to a large cap HEI but they sure are reliable than a pertronics conversion and much less expensive than a small cap hei with vacuum) If possible, I'd like to have a steel fan between radiator and short pump augmented by a pusher fan (in order to overbuild cooling for our hot summers).

I suppose in short, before bolting in the front mounts, I'm going to drop the nose of the motor, then remove the front wheels and drop the front end about 2" to see how the angles look.

Goodness knows what the rear pinion angle will be, as it was welded in without any consideration for weight/rake, etc. If I'm fortunate, shims, if not, I'll have to get someone with a mobile welder over to cut off the pads and weld them back on. On the good side, they got left/right correct on the rear axle!
Sounds like you're covering the bases. Adjusting pinion angle with leaf suspension is a simple fix when you get to that point. Small, angle shims are available in a variety of angles that simply clamp between the axle tube perch and the spring to turn the axle assembly up or down. I had some one time in a drawer in the shop, but will have to check if they are still there. Used them to change pinion angles when lifting 4wd trucks to eliminate driveshaft bind.
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad,

It don't look like much but one more big job tackled. Spent the morning on the Passenger Side, working positions for the lower motor mount bracket. Made up a drill jig and lots of measuring and found I could decrease the engine angle from 10 degrees to 5 degrees by dropping the front end about 1/2".....this put the motor mount bracket bolts just above the bottom of the arch in the front frame. I'll increase the bolt diameter later and sleeve the boxed portion of the frame to prevent pinching when the bolts are torqued. Probably also add an external plate and weld it all once finalized. Still need to trim this side and pretty it up but tomorrow I'll use the drill jig (indexed off the lower and now unused shock bolt hole) to set the Drivers side lower motor mount bracket.

The brackets are set 1/2" further back than the motor mount center line as we have enough room to scooch the motor back. Should still allow us choice of large or small cap distributor and gets the crankshaft triple pulley off the steering rack and out of the radiator.

In any event, the newly installed PS motor mount is taking weight and we should be 75% done with the installation by lunch tomorrow. After that, I'll clean up the mounts for aesthetics and figure out how to elevate the power steering pump brackets we acquired from Alan Grove in order to clearance the steering pinion.

Last step will be to check the angle at the tail of the trans and see if it needs to go up or down any.

Progress.

PS....we still had time to spread 3 cu yd of rocks in the front yard! Retirement is grand!

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Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad,
Motor is approaching 75% installed. Finalizing motor mounts out front. Accessories bolted on and drive pulleys aligned, much creative cutting and drilling of the good quality Alan Grove accessory mounts to get them to fit in the space available.....damn, Bessy got a narrow frame. Some wiring and waiting the Dizzy, exhaust manifolds but should all fit good....even got room for steering now.

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Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad,
Tossed the nose back on and started lining it up. 2.5" or more clearance between water pump and radiator. So, will still use a pusher fan, but may be room for a metal one. Almost time to order all the steering and radiator...another week or two.


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Mechanic Bob

Eight Pointer
FRICK'N SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am soooooooooooooooo jealous.
Very Nice work. Something to be very, very proud of!
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Thanks. And the new large cap hei dizzy fits with 3/8 inch clearance to spare!!! Now I don't have to mess with points or wait for a pertronix dizzy to burn out at the most inconvenient moment!!!
 

nccatfisher

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
Looks good. You may be able to squeeze a 5 blade stainless blade in there with a thin spacer. I think I'd still add a booster fan on a switch for hot days.
Yep, too many places to get caught in traffic jams bumper to bumper or dead stop on them 100 degree days not to. Better to have it and never need it than to need it and not have it.
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Mirrors my thoughts. I'd like to order rad with electric pusher and shroud if possible and also have a steel fan on the pump for out hot summers.
 

bigten

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
Mirrors my thoughts. I'd like to order rad with electric pusher and shroud if possible and also have a steel fan on the pump for out hot summers.
Yep, I think they come where you can mount fan on front or rear. Not sure you would have the space for rear mount so front would be better if it'll clear your grill shell and radiator support, Fan motor is reversible by swapping the two wires, so make sure rotation is correct.. Had that issue with a car years ago that I didn't know someone else had replaced the motor. Car would overheat while driving but not idling. Had me pulling my hair until finally just running and visually watching everything. Fan came on, worked and when it powered down was when I finally noticed it running backwards.
 

HotSoup

Ten Pointer
Yep, I think they come where you can mount fan on front or rear. Not sure you would have the space for rear mount so front would be better if it'll clear your grill shell and radiator support, Fan motor is reversible by swapping the two wires, so make sure rotation is correct.. Had that issue with a car years ago that I didn't know someone else had replaced the motor. Car would overheat while driving but not idling. Had me pulling my hair until finally just running and visually watching everything. Fan came on, worked and when it powered down was when I finally noticed it running backwards.
A piece of paper works wonders
 

bigten

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
A piece of paper works wonders
Yes, but first, one must have the cognizance to even check. At the time, I was unaware the fan had been replaced and the owner did not let me know the issue started after that job had been done. I checked to be sure it was operable but direction did not occur until later in testing. It's actually easy to see rotation during fan shut down if you look at it while it's coasting to stop... I just hadn't done so earlier in the process. Just one of those things I learned the hard way.
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad.

1 motor mount completed. Added crush sleeves for the bolts and a plate to weld in to reinforce where the holes were for the various flathead and Ford inline once sat. Plate and mount will get perimeter welded.

Off to finish the drivers side then to the trans mounts.

Exhaust manifolds should be here in a day or so.

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Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad,

Both front motor mounts are done and doged down tight. Halfway through the trans mount and the distributor is stabbed in and wired.
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Motor mounts done. Trans mount 90%. Choke hooked up. Oil dipstick is installed. Starting to route fuel lines.

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Nice work won’t be long before y’all will be smelling fumes but please put the number 1 on the the distributor cap where it should be.I know it doesn’t matter where you put it if the firing order is right...
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad. Fuel pressure regulator and gauge is in. Will run the big fuel injection style filter to keep the system clean and initially a second at the tank since the tank cleaning never cleans out all the old junk.

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Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad,

Getting ready for the final big push on the mechanical parts.

Called Walker Radiator in TN....Ordered a brass radiator with auto trans cooler. Will sort the fan once we see how it fits and what the clearance is.

Ordered the steering u joints, stainless tilt column and stainless and mahogany Banjo Steering wheel.

A few odds and ends needed to button up the motor like spark plug boots, throttle/kick down bracket, chrome trans inspection cover, etc.

Once the steering is in the last big job will be to set up the brake master and power booster, we have three options for brakes. Firewall, frame or under dash mount.
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad,

Starting the mock up of steering shafts while we await arrival of the parts. In bound is a double u-joint, a single u-joint, a support bearing for the double joint, Stainless Steel tilt steering column and a Mahogany and Stainless steel Banjo steering wheel. The column has 5 position tilt, turn signals, horn, etc. Its looking like the shop set the hole for the steering column too high in the firewall. May have to patch that one/use it for wiring input and cut a new hole lower (black tape) for the column. Angles look good. Plenty of clearance on the motor mounts and power steering pump. The toughest angle will be at the firewall and I suspect it'll be well under the maximum of 35 degrees. This first wag shows us somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 degrees. Measurements will be more accurate one I have all the parts and start the install later this week.

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