1937 Dodge D5 4 Door Humpback Touring Sedan

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Trying to dig into it now research wise. Just waiting to hear confirmation that its loaded and rolling this way. That should happen Tue or Wed. Once its here I'll inventory. Cleared out the gun room, the den and the garage! I want to have all the original parts installed before dad gets here for my retirement in october. I'll have him 3 weeks for hunting nc and sc and we'll wrench on the dodge then. By then I'll have listed out some form of cost benefit analysis and we'll decide on the power train. Pretty much got to make that decision before I start cutting steel to fit for steering links and exhaust and brakes and fuel and........

And, I got to put a boat load of tape on the car to protect that paint while I work.....its a tight garage.
 

smith-n-stokes

Old Mossy Horns
It’s a shame the way everything went down with the shop. They did y’all wrong in my opinion. Hope things go smoothly when you get it back and on the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
On the bright side, i'm getting the car mostly as I wanted it to begin with. All welding and heavy mods done, accident damage repaired and painted. So, from that perspective, no complaints. I'm sure I can work as well and a bunch faster than the shop. And, I'm on terminal leave to retirement starting 17 Sept 19 so......I'll have a bunch done before Dad arrives for the Oct Retirement Ceremony and he's staying three weeks. Between shooting at deer in the mornings and evenings, I expect to put him to work on it. I imagine we could knock out brakes and install a Gen I/II or III engine in a day!
 

Loganwayne

Six Pointer
Been doing a lot of research. I'm thinking about first three steps in this soon to be garage project. After inventory and bolting up all the sheet metal, I think I am ditching the used modern engine and transmission. Looking at the cost (let alone complexity) of fuel system mods, trans wiring/programming, engine wiring/reprograming, coolant system hose monster, and the list go's on.......I am leaning towards a v8 and trans more closely aligned with my budget and knowledge.....a small block and a th350. The modern stuff would have been wonderful.....if they would have finished the car. Hell Bells, the engine alone needs 40eleven electrical connectors and 2 miles of coolant hose, brains, 6 million lbs of fuel pressure and its so wide, I can't even see where it'll all go..... I'm liking the simplicity and cost of a 600 CFM carb and HEI lots better.

Hell, a Goodwrench engine and TCI trans with converter are less new with warranty than all the mods to get the LS to run.


Crossed fingers, car might just be in my garage this week. Wed is supposed to be the loading day.
Have your priced a dodge crate motor? im not sure what they cost compared to the chevy stuff but would be cool to see it with a dodge crate motor.

If it were mine i would find a self-learning EFI kit. they have come down in price a good bit in the last few years and are super simple, and more reliable than a Carb. they have gotten to the point of only being a small amount more than a good quality carb and getting it set up right. i think the only thing you would need different would be a higher pressure fuel pump which you can get and put inline or in tank, vs a mechanical pumper.
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
FITech is about the least expensive self learning FI kit, $900. I will mod the fuel tank for both carb and FI. I'd like FI but may go carb for now as its quick, painless and no programming.

No dodge crate motor, used hemi and trans all start about $7500 with no wiring or brains. We dumped the MOPAR power train ideas early. Hell, an early desoto hemi was looking at $15000 for a solid street able rebuild. Besides, I want it to start and last, so, Chevy. :) No, really, its set up for chevy now. With an adjustable trans mount and the 4" setback in the fire wall, I can stick about any GM block in there without having to do any new welding at all.

Leaning toward the Vortec. Best of the Gen IV inside and best of the GenI and II outside and no computer (I can run HEI and Edlebrock for now, update to TBI later if desired).

Last thing i got to decide is transmission. Gamble the used 4L60E with 100k miles is good and buy a brain for it at $600 or just get a good 700r4 from PACT with warranty at $1600 out the door. Not sure on that yet. I have to pull the pan on the 4L60e and see how much of the guts are stuck to the magnet. Kinda leaning toward the 700R4 as programming is not a strong suite. Plus, if i gamble and loose on the used 4l60e i would have been ahead to just pull it in the first place.

I figure engine + all the other parts will be half the remaining budget. That leaves a fair fat stack for a very nice interior and all the rubber/felt.
 
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lasttombstone

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
OH....... go ahead and throw a clutch and a T-10 back there and be done with it. You know you really want to anyway.
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
I wish! But that hip of mine ain't no longer a clutcher!. Hell, had to sell the 87 Jimmy just because of the ruff ride! I couldn't even stand up after an hour driving in it. I suspect with my hip, I'll be grindin all of them till they fit with a clutch. Gettin a touch more mature these days, I think marriage and a motorcycle wreck has fully modified my third point of contact for a smooth ride!
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad, Todays work.

Got her home and in the garage.

Front suspension springs are too long, bent and shocks won't fit.....I'll call Fat Man, may need shorter ones....not sure, this is a potential major screw up by the shop.

Dash is scraped up and needs new paint, probably by the shop in the moving around.

Headlights are scratched, not too bad though.

Hood braces installed, hood aligned, hood pins fitted, hood handles adjusted/freed up to operate.

Door check straps installed, door hinge pins seated.

Running board brackets installed, running boards need drilled and fitted.

Headlight stands and trim installed.

Headlight buckets installed.

Headlight inserts installed (6 hours to figure it out!!!)

Front Wing emblem installed.

License plate installed.

Screws installed in dash to hold it on, all threads are stripped, will have to repair to hold the dash up.

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Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Email to Dad,


Dad, this mornings work......off to mow and buy bolts to fix the dash attachment.

Installed the windshield inner trim, installed lower dash bolts (it won't fall out now), found steering column drop, installed rear view mirror, painted and reinstalled the license plate bracket (Silver), installed back seat hand straps and coat hangers, installed dome lamp and dome lamp switch, found and hung the dash plates that hold the light switches, throttle and choke, installed the full filler neck and grommet, located and installed the very poor condition front bumperettes.

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Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad,

I skipped the mowing. I'll borrow the tractor and bushhog later so we can bail it this week, not tall enough to quit working on the Dodge.

So, grabbed the first batch of hardware at lowes. Using stainless fasteners for the windshield to dash. Finally got the dash solidly mounted. It won't fall off now.

I used stainless fasteners to install the window garnish moldings the shop painted. So, they were never clear coated and are dull matt blue. Also, scratched up since they tossed everything in the car without any packing. Finally, they did not paint the Opra window moldings and they did paint the broken Passenger side front molding.

I have plenty of moldings and much of the glass in good condition. So, will start on glass in a week or so and swap out broken moldings and eventually get them all stripped. I may hydrodip transfer them in a wood grain pattern. Much easyer and very real looking and long lasting.


Back to the shop, time to install the running boards.
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Afternoon work done....

Dash is fully secured now, top and bottom. Top screws are stainless with stainless nuts and washers as the windshield opens for ventilation and is subject to water. I have three windshield drains to hook up. Running boards by Smoothie Fab are on. Pretty good fit for 82 year old car and lots of body work. Drivers side is a bit off but i still have front sheet metal to align. Back to front is where it needs to be and locked down snug. These are made for stepping on, top coat is black bed liner instead of the old style rubber mat.

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Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Windshield looks good. Rubber too. Gotta pull the opener for service but that and the cowl vent are this weeks jobs....plus I got 3 acres to mow...
 

Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad, tonights work.

- Glass inventory. Three cars worth will yield 8 near perfect sections of glass of the 11 pieces needed. We'll buy 1 drivers window, and 2 vent wings for the front doors. Savings will be about $700.....don't worry, we'll spend that on rubber!

- The window crank mechanism in the dash is cleaned, lubed and the zinc gears in near new condition. I have a spare mechanism for parts, and this part is not available at any price!

- Windshield in good shape, I'd replaced it in 91, and the rubber is still soft and plyable, no cracks, so, cleaning it up and it'll go back on the car this week. Located every screw needed, those hard to find 8x32 dome top tapered bottom screws.....at least the shop kept them in jar in the box, in the trunk!

- I properly installed the cigarette holder and cigar lighter box, seems the shop forgot the bolts.

- The cowl vent is rebuilt with its bug screen and ready to install.....However, rather than remove the hinge bolts under the dash, they cut the damn things off. I'll soak them in PB blaster and see if i can drill them out from the underside. If not, i have to remove all the upper dash bolts and rotate the dash down and back out of the way. Galls my ass they did such good work on the car and got lazy with two bolts.


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Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad,

Tonights work. Rubber for trunk, opera windows, vent windows and cowl vent should be here Saturday.

I'll start buttoning her cabin up snug, back to front like all the work. So, the first piece of glass is restored. Drivers side rear seat vent window. Frame and paint good, glass tight and the latch is now polished again. Compare to the Passenger side on the right. I have spare frames to replace the missing hardware so they'll stay open when driving.

Will probably also build the original trunk shelf this weekend.

And, buttoned up the dash for the last time I think. Here on the underside is the passenger side cowl vent hinge mounting point. they cut the studs off, no way to get to them from the top, but loosening the dash made enough room for the drill the studs came out. It'll be a 3.5 handed job to get the bolts and nuts back in there through the hinge, but i think duct tape and a drop of superglue on the wrench will make it go smooth in such a tight space.

Finally, the windshield is coming along. I should be ready to prime and paint it in a couple evenings and then hopefully install it this weekend.

If i get the cowl vent and crank open windshield done sunday, I'll let you know that the innovative MOPAR Bug Induction System is back up and running!

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Sharps40

Twelve Pointer
Dad,

As I work on the 37 Dodge, I continue to review the theme, what you might have done with her in the late 50s to mid 60s.

I think back to your original set up with the flat head six, though you always wanted a V8. Your set up of the six was bored, shaved, split dual exhaust and twin factory 1 barrel carburetors....with that set up, you won a lot of races against more powerful cars.

Uncle Mike, your brother, did similar things with his Fords.

So....since the computer controlled engine and transmission is coming out, I'm going to try getting us back in line with the agreed upon original theme.

Pending some fitment questions from the manufacturer, the photo shows your potential new fuel system. Something an 18 year old could have done in 1960. Dual 2 barrel GM carburetors on an original look adapter, because of course, why have one boreing 4 barrel carburetor when you can bolt on more!

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