westfalcon4
Button Buck
Has anyone tried growing dolgo crabapples for wildlife? I’m mostly interested if anyone has had any success/failures growing them in the coastal plains?
Additional recommendation based on my limited experience, get as tall a tree you can when you plant...I aim for 4 or more feet tall, survival has been excellent.Has anyone tried growing dolgo crabapples for wildlife? I’m mostly interested if anyone has had any success/failures growing them in the coastal plains?
Additional recommendation based on my limited experience, get as tall a tree you can when you plant...I aim for 4 or more feet tall, survival has been excellent.
I plant with 4 foot tree tubes, 3x3 weed mats, and 5 foot cage...most trees have grown 2 to 3 feet this year.Thanks for that advice. I was actually debating whether to go with a younger or more established tree, wondering which I’d have more success with. Glad to hear you’ve had good success.
Do you amend the soil at all while planting? I’ve read some conflicting info on amending sandy soil with mulch, potting soil, etc.I plant with 4 foot tree tubes, 3x3 weed mats, and 5 foot cage...most trees have grown 2 to 3 feet this year.
Honestly, they are planted on the edge of my food plots, which were amended with lime and fertilizer based on soil sample results. I put a little water retaining amendment in the bottom of the hole and use powder mychorizal fungi on the roots before placing it in the hole. Plenty of water, and if you can water them with about 5 gallons every week or two, you should be golden. I have some spots that are sandy and some that are heavy clay, this process seems successful on both. If you want to discuss it more, I'm more than happy to share my process in more detail, I bet you could improve upon it. I do wish you luck with planting your trees though.Do you amend the soil at all while planting? I’ve read some conflicting info on amending sandy soil with mulch, potting soil, etc.
Honestly, they are planted on the edge of my food plots, which were amended with lime and fertilizer based on soil sample results. I put a little water retaining amendment in the bottom of the hole and use powder mychorizal fungi on the roots before placing it in the hole. Plenty of water, and if you can water them with about 5 gallons every week or two, you should be golden. I have some spots that are sandy and some that are heavy clay, this process seems successful on both. If you want to discuss it more, I'm more than happy to share my process in more detail, I bet you could improve upon it. I do wish you luck with planting your trees though.
If you'd like, send me a PM and I'll give you my number if you want to talk.This is my first go around planting in the coastal plains, as all of my planting/management experience has been in Pennsylvania. I really like your method though. I’d love to have any information you’re willing to share. I’m also planning on doing a soil test and planting on the edges of food plots.
Do you amend the soil at all while planting? I’ve read some conflicting info on amending sandy soil with mulch, potting soil, etc.
Have to respectably disagree. Dig a decent size hole 2 times the size of the rootall (give our take. Doesnt have to be perfect). Backfill the whole and pack in around the tree (with foot, not too packed) until four to six inches from grade. amend the last 4-6" of soil with compost and fertilizer (10-10-10) is fine. Not too much fert at first. I reccomend fertilizing twice a year with 10-10-10 or once a year with a good time released fertilizer. You can do a tree ring if you want but its not necessary. Plant the tree slightly above grade. Do not put any dirt on top of the root ball. Put a 2 to 3 " layer of mulch on top of the tree. Do not put any mulch touching the trunk EVER. For some reason people like to pile mulch on top of the root ball and against the trunk nowadays. Happy to help if you have any questions.Don’t. Soil needs to be the same medium as surrounding soil, as closely as possible. Amendments if made, need to be in the form of compost/chips/mulch on top around the tree but not actually touching the trunk.
Have to respectably disagree. Dig a decent size hole 2 times the size of the rootall (give our take. Doesnt have to be perfect). Backfill the whole and pack in around the tree (with foot, not too packed) until four to six inches from grade. amend the last 4-6" of soil with compost and fertilizer (10-10-10) is fine. Not too much fert at first. I reccomend fertilizing twice a year with 10-10-10 or once a year with a good time released fertilizer. You can do a tree ring if you want but its not necessary. Plant the tree slightly above grade. Do not put any dirt on top of the root ball. Put a 2 to 3 " layer of mulch on top of the tree. Do not put any mulch touching the trunk EVER. For some reason people like to pile mulch on top of the root ball and against the trunk nowadays. Happy to help if you have any questions.
Not sure about fire blight this young but we havent planted any crabapple in a long time bc of fire blight so keep an eye on that. Good luck