Shotshell reloading

JJWise

Twelve Pointer
After reloading for rifles for a few years now, I’m getting into making my own shotgun loads for the first time, last night I got a Mec 9000. Right now I have about 50 Federal Field & Target hulls and 50 Rios. Plan on just starting out with basic 7.5 shot for now and using them for skeet, doves and maybe other upland uses. Hoping to eventually start loading non-tox for waterfowl as well. Would anyone on here mind sharing their favorite 12ga loads?
 

HotSoup

Old Mossy Horns
I use AAHS hulls, claybuster wads, and clays powder. I have bars for 7/8, 1, 1-1/8, 1-1/4 shot and a ton of bushings. Its much easier than rifle reloading imo. I can load a box every 15 minutes or so with my mec 600.
 

took

Ten Pointer
Contributor
i shoot about 100 clays a week and have been debating getting into this as well....
 

JJWise

Twelve Pointer
A word of caution, get a shot shell reloading manual and only use the components listed for your particular hull. DO NOT deviate from the published recipe!!!
Yep I have a manual on the way right now. I don’t plan on playing around with my shotgun loads to fine tune them as much as I do with my rifle loads

i shoot about 100 clays a week and have been debating getting into this as well....

I’ve been shooting about 200-250 rounds a week at the skeet club for the last 4 months or so. For a 12ga, I’m not sure there’s any cost savings in reloading skeet loads, unless you go down to 7/8oz. I’m hoping I’ll be able to load Bismuth shot for less than factory ammo costs though.
 

Bailey Boat

Twelve Pointer
Yep I have a manual on the way right now. I don’t plan on playing around with my shotgun loads to fine tune them as much as I do with my rifle loads

I’ve been shooting about 200-250 rounds a week at the skeet club for the last 4 months or so. For a 12ga, I’m not sure there’s any cost savings in reloading skeet loads, unless you go down to 7/8oz. I’m hoping I’ll be able to load Bismuth shot for less than factory ammo costs though.

There isn't much, if any savings when loading 12 gauge. You can buy them for about 5.00 per box when you buy them by the flat (10 boxes) The only thing I'm still reloading is 28 and 410 and the savings are definitely there for those 2.
If you need any help holler, I'm an NRA certified reloading instructor, metallic and shot shell...
 

nccatfisher

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
That would depend on what you are loading in 12 ga. The buckshot I am loading is about $4-5 a shell if you buy it from the custom ammo mfgs. I am loading it for a pittance of that, especially when I cast my own buckshot.
 

took

Ten Pointer
Contributor
I mainly shoot 12 or 20g; and I was thinking the math may not add up to start it up yet. I did shoot a buddy's 28g recently and "almost" caught the 28g fever. Will definitely have to start reloading if I do.
 

darkthirty

Old Mossy Horns
My first thought would be chunk those Rios in the trash. I like rio factory shells but I don’t know anyone that has very good results with Rios. For a great reloading cheap hull. Buy a couple cases of Rem Gun Clubs. That’s a “budget priced” shell that also reloads very well.
Only thing I’ll say is it’s really easy to overthink it. Don’t. It’s not complicated. I see people freak out all the time over crimps too deep or crimps don’t seat deep enough, or there’s a small gap in the crimp. I guess it comes from shooting skeet for years with a bunch of 80 year old men who reloaded hundreds of thousands of shells. Id say something about my reload, and everyone of’em would look at me and say “gun went off and target broke, what else do you want”.....haha.
I loaded promo with clay buster wads when I was reloading 12’s. Can’t remember #’s though.
 

pattersonj11

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
You will want remingtons. The new AA will load okay, but they are bad about bending when crimping.

All remingtons do well. They started making a hull specifically for reloading and they work great, just don’t find them often.

For skeet, go ahead and shoot 7/8 oz. you won’t notice a difference besides less recoil.

You still won’t save any money. 410, 28, 16 can save money. 20 and 12 not so much. You can essentially load a premium shell equivalent to a AA or good Remington for around$5.50-$6.00 a box. Cheapest I have been able to load cheap shells is about $5.00. As long as the lead is high like now, it is just really costly to reload
 

JJWise

Twelve Pointer
My first thought would be chunk those Rios in the trash. I like rio factory shells but I don’t know anyone that has very good results with Rios. For a great reloading cheap hull. Buy a couple cases of Rem Gun Clubs. That’s a “budget priced” shell that also reloads very well.
Only thing I’ll say is it’s really easy to overthink it. Don’t. It’s not complicated. I see people freak out all the time over crimps too deep or crimps don’t seat deep enough, or there’s a small gap in the crimp. I guess it comes from shooting skeet for years with a bunch of 80 year old men who reloaded hundreds of thousands of shells. Id say something about my reload, and everyone of’em would look at me and say “gun went off and target broke, what else do you want”.....haha.
I loaded promo with clay buster wads when I was reloading 12’s. Can’t remember #’s though.
I know most the old guys I shoot with shoot the ugliest reloads you’ve ever seen. But they also shoot O/Us. My 12s are all pumps, are they any more picky when it comes to cycling less than perfect shells?
 

pattersonj11

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
Autos are pickiest, but pumps are picky as well. They will want decent reloads to function.

Also, the hulls with the ribs on the sides are made just for that purpose. Slick side hulls like AA and the expensive remingtons are made for break action guns for the most part. They work fine in autos, but the ribs you see on cheaper shells are there to create less friction and load/unload easier.

I personally like to load the black Remington game loads best. They make really good reloads. The gun clubs do fine, but once in a while one will be funky. They are not very tight on overall length. The black game loads seem to be more even to me even though they are supposed to be the same hull.

Premium rems load great. The American clays or whatever the light green shell is reloads wonderfully.

I would load black or the American clays if I had the choice. I rarely have an issue with the black hulls.
 

Bailey Boat

Twelve Pointer
The biggest issue with most hulls isn't the plastic their made of it's the metal in the base that causes more problems than anything. Steel, and brass plated steel are among the worst. The steel won't "spring back" after firing like a true brass hull does. I have seen auto's and pump guns completely tied up because of a stuck shell.

I normally only reload WW AA's and have been doing so for over 30 years. At this time of year WW is offering a $2.00 per box rebate, up to 50 boxes so you may want to think about stocking up....... Buy them by the flat (10 boxes) and cut the UPC off the carton instead of having to cut each box individually (PITA)......
 

stiab

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
As stated above, please use standard published loads and do not try to mix and match components. For hulls, you are best to use ONLY those with one piece base wads. This is the wad that fills the brass. Examples would be AA and the black Remington hulls. In other words, the base wad should be part of the plastic molded shell, not a separate paper wad at the bottom. Not to be confused with the shot wad up top.
 

Bailey Boat

Twelve Pointer
As stated above, please use standard published loads and do not try to mix and match components. For hulls, you are best to use ONLY those with one piece base wads. This is the wad that fills the brass. Examples would be AA and the black Remington hulls. In other words, the base wad should be part of the plastic molded shell, not a separate paper wad at the bottom. Not to be confused with the shot wad up top.

Unfortunately ALL of the new AA's have a separate base wad, unlike the older AA's that were compression formed, and require adjustments to whatever machine you're loading on.
 

stiab

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
Unfortunately ALL of the new AA's have a separate base wad, unlike the older AA's that were compression formed, and require adjustments to whatever machine you're loading on.
Wow, was unaware of that, will avoid the newer ones, but have tons of the old. Thanks for clarifying. With the 2 piece base wad, avoid any moisture contact with the empty hulls.
 

pattersonj11

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
The biggest issue with most hulls isn't the plastic their made of it's the metal in the base that causes more problems than anything. Steel, and brass plated steel are among the worst. The steel won't "spring back" after firing like a true brass hull does. I have seen auto's and pump guns completely tied up because of a stuck shell.

I normally only reload WW AA's and have been doing so for over 30 years. At this time of year WW is offering a $2.00 per box rebate, up to 50 boxes so you may want to think about stocking up....... Buy them by the flat (10 boxes) and cut the UPC off the carton instead of having to cut each box individually (PITA)......

I stocked up on them last year and sent in upc’s and receipts. They sent me a letter saying they would not send me a rebate because the receipt did not have items itemized. The receipt I had for the purchase said “ammunition” and it was for around $430 with tax. I sent them an explanation back telling them the price was $80/case and about 7% for the tax explaining the receipt. They would not send the rebate. I thought that was kind of a low blow.
 

pattersonj11

Old Mossy Horns
Contributor
Keep in mind if you are loading for pumps or autos....the shells with ribs on them are made for them. The ribs have less surface contact in chamber and therefore less friction. Cheaper shells tend to work better for autos and pumps. Singles, doubles, and o/u guns will shoot about anything that you load.

Most cheaper pumps will run most shells. The ribbed hulls are ideal....but 870s and moss berg pump guns tend to be a shade looser on the chamber and will run pretty reliably with anything.

As long as you cull out any problem shells that are dimples or bent when you load, you shouldn’t have issues with most autos. My autos run pretty well unless I have one where it bends.

The new AA hulls are bad about bending. Make sure you have a good recipe for the new hulls. Remington loads and old AA loads will work sometimes.....but sometimes it is a touch too much for the new AA hull to hold. They will crimp but will sometimes bend.
 

Bailey Boat

Twelve Pointer
Wow, was unaware of that, will avoid the newer ones, but have tons of the old. Thanks for clarifying. With the 2 piece base wad, avoid any moisture contact with the empty hulls.

The problem with having plenty of the "old" is that they take a different wad and they are becoming harder and harder to find. Plenty around for the new HS hull but not much interchangeability because the HS hull is straight walled and the Compression hull (old type) was tapered.
 

JJWise

Twelve Pointer
Keep in mind if you are loading for pumps or autos....the shells with ribs on them are made for them. The ribs have less surface contact in chamber and therefore less friction. Cheaper shells tend to work better for autos and pumps. Singles, doubles, and o/u guns will shoot about anything that you load.

Most cheaper pumps will run most shells. The ribbed hulls are ideal....but 870s and moss berg pump guns tend to be a shade looser on the chamber and will run pretty reliably with anything.

As long as you cull out any problem shells that are dimples or bent when you load, you shouldn’t have issues with most autos. My autos run pretty well unless I have one where it bends.

The new AA hulls are bad about bending. Make sure you have a good recipe for the new hulls. Remington loads and old AA loads will work sometimes.....but sometimes it is a touch too much for the new AA hull to hold. They will crimp but will sometimes bend.
Wow I’d never heard that, thanks. The only 12gauges I have at the moment are Mossberg 500s so I’m glad to hear they’re a little less picky about hulls.
 

darkthirty

Old Mossy Horns
The problem with having plenty of the "old" is that they take a different wad and they are becoming harder and harder to find. Plenty around for the new HS hull but not much interchangeability because the HS hull is straight walled and the Compression hull (old type) was tapered.

I use the same claybuster wads for old and new hulls. Never had any issues. I follow recipes exactly on custom or magnum type reloads but for target shells, I’ve mixed primers and wads and even chronographed them and couldn’t tell a difference.
 

Bailey Boat

Twelve Pointer
I use the same claybuster wads for old and new hulls. Never had any issues. I follow recipes exactly on custom or magnum type reloads but for target shells, I’ve mixed primers and wads and even chronographed them and couldn’t tell a difference.

Your choice, your hands, arms and face.....
 

stiab

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
The problem with having plenty of the "old" is that they take a different wad and they are becoming harder and harder to find.
Got plenty of them too, I tend to stock up on stuff, probably to an excessive degree. I was buying bricks of .22's to save long before anybody anticipated a 'shortage'. Have 100's of boxes of factory .38, .357, and Super 38, way more than I will ever use. Need to think about getting rid of some of that stuff.
 

stiab

Twelve Pointer
Contributor
Blasphemy!! :eek:

Unless you mean by pulling a trigger!(y)
I need to do more of that too. When I get a chance I am going to start a tread and show you guys some cool old ammo, stuff you rarely see. Like Submachine Gun 9mm, 38 Super used by the OSS in WWII, .38 Special factory loaded with buckshot (not bird shot),, armor piercing .38 Special, and so forth.
 

shurshot

Ten Pointer
After reloading for rifles for a few years now, I’m getting into making my own shotgun loads for the first time, last night I got a Mec 9000. Right now I have about 50 Federal Field & Target hulls and 50 Rios. Plan on just starting out with basic 7.5 shot for now and using them for skeet, doves and maybe other upland uses. Hoping to eventually start loading non-tox for waterfowl as well. Would anyone on here mind sharing their favorite 12ga loads?

First off get Lyman’s 5th edition reloading manual and familiarize yourself with. Great info and lots of load data .... lead, steel, bismuth, hevi shot.

As for reloading lead target rounds. Since you are scarfing empties, I’d try and find one, maybe two brands that are prevalent and use them. Rem. Gun Clubs are very popular (especially at my club) and load/crimp fantastic. Lot of good load data for them too. You’ll prob find lots of Rios too but they being a Euro (European) hull means using a euro primer which is slightly larger than say a Winchester (W209) primer, probably the most common US primer. You could always “peen” the primer pocket back down to accommodate a US primer but there are just way too many loads available w/o having to do that. I also will mention about getting good recipes from the gun powder companies themselves. Alliant, Hodgon, Winchester all have great reloading info you can get free from their websites.

Not sure what the fuss is using 2 piece hulls, that’s about all you’ll find now. Most all will have a plastic base wad however there are some (mainly certain Federals) with paper base wads that can get wet or deteriorate quickly and potentially dislodge when fired. Fine to use once, maybe twice fired if you inspect each base wad for signs mentioned above. But again, too many other option out there not to worry about.

Non tox is a different ballgame. Your Mec will be good for depriming, resizing, and crimping only. You basically have to measure your payload and powder volumes. Might be other things you have to add (spacers, fillers, buffers, Mylar strips) but that depends on what recipe you’re loading up. I reload 12 and 28 ga. in non tox loads and find it fun and very rewarding. The 28 ga stuff best utilizes the HW shot since it’s heavier than lead and can inflict some serious damage. Steel in the 12 is all that most of us need but still fun to reload and hunt with HW or HS payloads.

Hope this helps, I’m sure any of the guys here would be happy to help you out. Quit a bit of experience here.
 
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